Why are my Philodendron’s Leaves Curling?

Philodendrons are such gorgeous accent plants. With their playful heart-shaped and often variegated foliage and tendril-like vines, they have a lush and nostalgic aesthetic that blends well with any space. They’re an easy-care plant variety, which is great! But when they’re in less than optimal health, they can exhibit frustrating curling to their leaves. Read on to learn why, and what you can do about it!

Underwatering

Underwatering is definitely the number one cause of curling and dryness to Philodendron foliage. Be sure to water your plant whenever its topsoil is dry. You can gauge this by lifting off some of your plant’s decorative moss and sticking your finger about two inches down in its soil. If the top two inches of soil are dry, it’s time to water. You will likely find that the soil dries out about every seven to ten days, but this will vary from season to season, so it’s important to check the soil manually.

Lack of Moisture from Atmospheric Dryness

Philodendrons appreciate being misted, especially during the driest months of the year. If you notice curling foliage on your plant, mist it up to three times weekly. You can utilize a watering can that has a mister attachment, like this one here, or buy a mister locally from a nursery or home supply store. Additionally, air conditioners and heaters can both cause spaces to become dry, so be mindful of your plant’s placement in regard to appliances like these. It may need to be moved.

Cold Environment

Philodendrons are also sensitive to cold. There’s not much you can do about the temperature changes brought on by the seasons, but be sure to keep your plant in a space that has a consistent temperature. Move it away from anything that might cause drafts, which can get the plant cold. That means keeping your plant away from frequently opened and closed doors, air conditioners and fans.

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Philodendron Brasil

A lush and resilient tropical plant, the Philodendron Brasil features heart-shaped leaves, and is a low-maintenance plant variety with a flexible disposition and tolerance for low light and sporadic watering.

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Curious about owning a potted fruit tree?

Caring for fruiting trees like Meyer lemon trees or olive trees is a rewarding and exhilarating experience. But the care that these plant varieties require is a little different from your standard flowering plants or ornamentals. It's essential to maintain houseplants that thrive, especially when they can bear fruit.

Potted Fruit Trees, including evergreen varieties, have the potential to reward you, not only with burgeoning, fragrant blossoms but also with actual ripe fruit. Whether this is your end goal, or just a pleasant byproduct of these aesthetically enchanting plants, perhaps reminiscent of olives waiting to be turned into oil, you’ll want to care for them according to some basic tenets. Read on, and be inspired!

1. Give them all the light

Fruit trees need bright sunlight to thrive. Ample, direct sunlight is their main source of energy, and everything from their photosynthesis to the lushness of their foliage to blossoming and pushing forth fruit depends on it. These plants do best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. Place your plant in an area that receives as much direct light as possible—most fruit-bearing plants need a minimum of 4-6 hours a day of direct sunlight. Regular pruning can also help in ensuring the plant gets adequate light and maintains healthy growth.

2. Water regularly and healthily

All plants need water to survive, but fruiting plants often require more water than standard indoor houseplant varieties. However, it's essential that the soil is well-drained to prevent root rot. Higher temperatures, especially if the plant is placed outside, direct sunlight, and features of the weather, like wind, all affect the rate at which your plant uses the water you give them. Some fruiting plants may also be drought-tolerant, meaning they can withstand periods without water better than others, but it's still crucial to monitor their moisture needs closely. Both of our potted fruit trees, Olive and Meyer Lemon, should be watered when their top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. More on that later, but to start off, plan on checking those moisture levels regularly. 

3. But Beware of Overwatering

We know, we know. Determining how much water to give your plants, and how often, can feel like baffling arithmetic. Give them water, but not too much, lest you awaken some monster in the roots of your plants. But we can simplify it for you: if the topsoil of your potted fruit tree is wet, it does not need more water yet. We know that it can be tempting to douse it anyway out of boredom and the wild love and longing to connect that all of us plant folks feel with our green friends. But re-channel that energy into...

Never overwater your plants again with these sleek and simple moisture meters.

Moisture Meter

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4. Probe That Soil!

At Léon & George, we are avid fans of sticking our fingers in dirt. And it’s not just because we’ve never fully matured out of our sandbox days-- it’s because probing your plant’s soil truly is the best way to measure its moisture and determine if it needs water. When planting in pots, choosing the right soils is essential, especially if you're aiming for a Mediterranean feel, which often requires specific soil types.

If you’re squeamish, wear a gardening glove (we’ve never been ones to turn down an opportunity to accessorize). But do stick your finger down into the top two inches of your plant’s soil-- at least once weekly is best— and gauge its moisture. This hands-on method also allows you to detect any pests early on, ensuring that your plants remain healthy and vibrant.

If the top two inches of soil are dry, rejoice! It’s time to water, and you can use another fun accessory, like a sweet watering can. 

5. Don’t Overthink It

Ah, our favorite tenet of all. So easy to say and so challenging sometimes to truly practice. The fruit trees on offer at Léon & George are low-maintenance by nature. They need only a few things to thrive, like light, water, love, and occasional plant food. 

It can be hard not to get a little meddlesome with your plants. Are they happy? How do you know, since they can’t talk? They look happy, but are they for sure? These concerns are totally normal, and we experience them, too. Still, for the good of your tree, keep it simple and avoid: 

• Plant Food Spikes. Fruiting trees want food in liquid form. So say chin chin and offer them their fertilizer in a draught (aka, water soluble) rather than a spike. 

• Musical Chairs. We love re-arranging decor, but this practice is best exercised with things that are, well, not alive. Your plant will not appreciate being shuffled about regularly. So find a spot that satisfies its lighting needs, and stick with it. Your plant wants nothing more than to “bloom where it’s planted.”

• Repotting just for fun. Especially during the warmer months, it is not advised to re-pot your plant. Summer is the time of fastest growth for fruit trees, and they want to direct their energy toward that growth, rather than toward adjusting to a new container. So don’t throw a hitch in your plant’s giddy-up unnecessarily by attempting to repot during the summer. Instead, sit back and watch as it manifests gorgeous growth for you!

6. Watch Out For Bugs

It’s unlikely that your plant will experience any issues with insects. After all, olive trees are naturally pest resistant. Thank you, Mother Nature! Still, there are easy ways to eradicate insects should you experience an unexpected visitation. 

There are plenty of pest-control products for fruiting outdoor plants available, and you can use them with confidence, because they will not have an adverse affect on your plant. If you prefer to explore an all-natural solution, neem oil is a great alternative, and you can learn all about it and other natural pest remedies here. Just make sure not to apply neem oil to your tree on particularly sunny days, which can cause leaf scorching, not unlike the sunburn we’d get if we oiled up on a super-hot day.

7. Be Patient

Can’t wait until your potted evergreen tree, perhaps an Olea europaea, proffers a tumble of olives for your martini? We get that! But gardening is a meditative pastime. It takes time, lots of light, fertilizing during the growing season, and consistency for fruit trees to bear fruit, and it can sometimes take up to a few years. In the meantime, be patient with your tree, enjoy its grace, its gorgeous silhouette, and the strength of its branches. Every phase of a plant’s growth is beautiful, and if you learn to enjoy them all, you will never be disappointed. Your Meyer lemon bars will come in time. Until then, enjoy every moment of your plant’s evolution. After all, it’s because of your love and care that it is growing at all.

8. Treat Overwatering Briskly

We’re not pinning this on you-- freak rainstorms have been known to occur, as have overzealous garden hoses. So not to worry, if you’ve overwatered, there is a simple solution: it just requires a little elbow grease.

Your plant is in a plastic nursery pot, which is situated within its ceramic pot on top of a level consisting of a foam block. Using containers that have drainage is adequate for plant growth, and this system helps ensure just that. Don your gardening gloves and grasp your plant as low as possible on the base of its trunk. Be careful to support the plant as you lift it, still within its plastic pot, out of the ceramic planter.

See standing water in the ceramic pot? Say good riddance and dump it out! Then leave your plant, still clad only in its plastic pot, in a sunny spot to dry. Don’t water again until its top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, at which time you can return it to its ceramic pot.

9. Tune In To the Rhythm 

Unsurprisingly, your fruiting plants will respond to seasonal changes. These plants are often fast growers that produce fruit when given the right conditions. And when the weather beckons you to the beach, tempts you with a summer treat, or calls for celebratory fireworks, it’s also signaling to your plants to grow, baby, grow!

During spring and summer, your fruit trees will want to be fed plant fertilizer about every two weeks. It's essential to fertilize your plants consistently during these periods. Your tree won’t want to be repotted, and it will desire more water. So if you’re reaching for your Evian facial spray, your plant might crave its equivalent. Probe its and allow soil to dry out to be sure before watering.

The same logic goes for colder months. If visions of sugarplums are dancing in your head, your plant is likewise ready to dream and rest. And if (and only if!) temperatures are freezing or below freezing, your plant will want to go inside, just like you.

10. A Word on Winter and Frost

Citrus trees, with their ornamental stems and vibrant blooms, are particularly vulnerable to frost and should not be left outside in freezing or near-freezing conditions. As autumn turns colder and if your location experiences freezing temperatures during the winter, you as a gardener will need to bring your tree inside, either into a garage or inside your home. The tree will go dormant during the winter. During this time, its stems might seem less lively and it may not be in its blooming best. But don’t worry! It’s perfectly natural, and the plant will awaken and revive as the season moves into spring.

We understand that even though our fruiting tree collection is right outside your door, it’s still a new frontier. Don’t be shy- we’re here to help! Our Plant Doctor service offers unlimited guidance for your Léon & George plants. So if you have questions that haven’t been answered here, just reach out. Log into your Léon & George account, upload photos of your plant as a whole and close ups of any areas of concern, and tell them a bit about what you’re seeing. Good things happen when we work together, and we answer inquiries punctually and thoroughly. 

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FRUITING TREES AND BUSHES BY LÉON & GEORGE

Luxurious greenery for vibrant, brightly lit spaces. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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New this summer, our hand-picked collection of outdoor potted plants was inspired by the tradition of Mediterranean container gardening and our personal connection to Southern California’s legendary climate. We are so excited to bring you beautiful outdoor plants that will flourish and adorn your outdoor space for years to come. Each plant is sourced from our trusted, California-based nursery partners, and nurtured from the very start for a lifetime of good health and strength. 

You don’t need ample outdoor space to enjoy the magic of watching a tree grow, thrive, and bring forth delicate foliage and glistening, colorful fruit. We’ve ensured that this pleasure is accessible to all our customers, by pairing our outdoor plants with weatherproof, hand-finished ceramic stoneware pots that are suitable for small and large spaces alike. Whether you’re decorating a small balcony or a spacious entryway, these outdoor plants are a perfect fit.

The varieties we’ve chosen for this collection are classic legacy plants, with timeless, painterly  silhouettes and the strength to thrive over years and become a part of your home’s heritage. They create enchanting focal points for the welcoming atmosphere of porches, doorways or patios, and are a natural complement to our indoor plant varieties. With their requirement for generous light, these new plant varieties are intended exclusively for outdoor placement.

The Olive Tree and Bush, Olea europaea have elegant, silvery green foliage, and are naturally both pest and drought resistant. With generous light, these varieties produce a profusion of fruit within months, featuring a classic olive flavor profile and rich in antioxidants.

The Meyer Lemon Tree and Bush, Citrus meyeri, are adorned with vibrant green foliage and emanate an enchanting, fresh citrus aroma. With ample light, and over the course of several months, these varieties push forth delicate, white blossoms and exquisite, sun-sweetened fruit. From cocktails to baked goods, you’ll always find a good use for your Meyer lemons. 

The Sago Palm, Cycas revoluta, is a textural dream, with feathery, high-gloss fronds and a richly tactile, deep mahogany trunk. With their preference for indirect bright light, Sagos are well situated for outdoor areas that receive some shade. Slow growers, Sagos have been known to live for hundreds of years. 

Shop our new collection of luscious greenery for inspired outdoor spaces.

Why are my the tips of my Snake Plant turning brown?

Snake plants are notoriously resilient plants, however, like all plants they may experience a little discomfort depending on their environment . There are a number of reasons why your Snake plant might be browning. But not to worry, it's very likely that there are no serious issues at play. Take a look below for causes of browning tips, and find a solution that will help your Snake plant achieve greatness!

Inconsistent Watering

If you find that the tips or stalks of your Snake plant are browning, there's a chance that you could be overwatering or underwatering your plant. A simple inspection will let you know which is happening. 

If the Snake plant’s soil is soggy and waterlogged, that means that your Snake is getting too much to drink! Remedy this by waiting for the soil to completely dry out, which can take between ten days and two weeks, then you may water your plant again.

If the Snake plant’s soil is dry, then it could be that your plant is in need of some water. To test the moisture of your plant, you can use a moisture meter, which will help you maintain a healthy and regular watering schedule, which will aid in keeping your Snake’s tips from browning.

Too Much Sunlight

Snake plants may be hardy, but there is a limit to how much sunlight and heat they can handle. Just like you, excessive heat or sun can make your plant uncomfortable or stressed. If your snake plant sits by a window, or simply in a spot that gets a lot of sun, this could be the reason your plant’s tips are browning. If this is the case, you can move your plants to another spot in your house where your plant will get slightly less direct sun. You can monitor it over time to make sure it’s happy and thriving! 

Pests

The possibility of bugs can be an issue for many plants, but don’t panic! There are multiple ways you can treat a pest issue with your Snake plant.

Inspect your Snake plant’s leaves and soil and look for any signs of bugs in either area. They can be small, so be sure to look closely. One common type of pest you may discover is called a mealybug, which will look like little, white cotton spots on the stalks of your Snake. They are considered to be sap suckers, and can slowly dehydrate your plant and steal its nutrients, which can cause browning overtime. Before treating the plant, we suggest removing it from your other surrounding houseplants while it heals, just to ensure the infestation doesn’t spread to other plants in your home.

There are multiple chemical pesticides and insecticides for treating pests, but if you would like a more natural route, you can use Neem oil. Spray it directly on the infestation sites and they will be gone within days, and you can repeat the routine if needed.

When In Doubt, Reach Out

Browning on your Snake plant is most likely not a serious health issue. However, if you are concerned that your Snake plant is showing other signs of distress, our Plant Doctor Service is here to provide guidance. Simply sign in to your Léon & George account, select “Contact Plant Doctor” and get in touch.

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Snake Plant

A popular, air-purifying succulent with a structural shape and an incredibly hardy disposition.

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Repotting indoor plants, like this Bird of Paradise, is a simple process.

Repotting plants may seem like a scary endeavor if you’ve never gotten your hands dirty, but anyone who’s tried it will agree that it’s not only simple but also quite fun and enjoyable as well! Learn how to repot, when to repot and more with this simple guide.

When SHOULD I REPOT MY PLANT?

When it comes to indoor plants, you should repot once every one to two years. However, sometimes your plant may also send you signals that it’s time to repot. Here are some signs you may look for:

• Matted roots on the soil surface, as can be common with Fiddle Leaf Figs

• The roots are coming out at the bottom, through the drainage holes for example, not uncommon with Birds of Paradise

• The roots are seemingly “busting” at the seams, as sometimes seen on the Snake Plant or Zanzibar Gem (and if the plant is in a plastic nursery pot, it may well break it!)

• The roots are quite literally “pushing” the plant out of the pot

• The plant dries out very quickly, for example in a matter of days

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF REPOTTING MY PLANT?

There are many benefits to repotting your plants, and that’s why we recommend doing so every 1-2 years, even if you don’t plan on sizing up to a larger planter. Some of the benefits of repotting include:

• More room for plants’ roots to grow

• Fresh nutrients in the soil

• Better airflow in fresh soil

• An opportunity to remove dead or dying roots

What time of year should I Repot MY plant?

The best time of year to repot your plant is in the spring or summer, as this is when plants are actively growing. That said, is not the end of the world if for whatever reason you need to repot in the middle of winter!

HOW DO I REPOT MY PLANT?

Before repotting your plant, make sure you have the necessary basic materials to repot, like fresh, indoor potting soil. a new bigger pot if desired and sharp, clean shears.

Our Deluxe Repotting Kit is a great place to start if you have a large or XL Léon & George plant that needs sizing up.

Once you have all your materials, when your plant is dry or before it's next watering, follow these simple instructions:

1. Remove the plant from its pot. For smaller plants, you can do this by simply turning over the pot and letting the plant slide out. For larger plants, you may need to gently coax it out of the pot (pro tip: spread newspaper over the floor for easy clean up!). If your plant is difficult to remove from the pot (the roots are twisting out the drainage holes), you may need to simply cut these roots off to get it out.

2. Shake the soil off the roots, removing about half of the old soil. You may need to gently detangle some of the roots to do this. Don’t panic if some of them rip or break. You may also prune some roots, especially if you are planning on potting it in the same pot as before.

3. Pour a couple inches of fresh potting soil into the pot and pat down so it’s firm.

4. Place the plant in the pot and fill with more soil until it’s secure in place and standing straight. Pat down again until firm.

5. Fill with soil to the top of the pot, but make sure to leave about an inch so that water does not overflow when you water your plant.

6. Water thoroughly and let the plant completely drain.

Voilà! You’re done. Remember that your plant may be a little unstable the first few weeks in its new pot, so take care when moving it back to its home.

WHAT IS THE Best Potting Soil for Indoor Plants?

You don’t need any special type of potting soil for most indoor plants. Any organic potting soil labeled for indoor plants will do. Certain plants, such as succulents and cacti, may need a fast-draining potting soil, but generally speaking the majority of popular houseplants will do just fine with regular indoor potting soil.

Do you have to repot your plant?

Our Plant Doctors receive many enquiries about when to repot plants, or if it’s an absolute must for the plant to thrive. The truth is that most indoor plants only need repotting once every one or two years (though some slow growers can survive many years in the same pot!), and even then, it isn’t necessarily required to repot them in a bigger container.

The primary reason why we repot plants is to give them fresh, nutrient-rich soil, which can easily be done by removing the plant from its pot and shaking the old dirt off the roots. At that point, if you’d like your plant to stay the same size, you may simply repot it directly in the old pot, of course with fresh new soil. If you’d like your plant to grow bigger, you can repot it in something about two inches larger than what it was in before.

Of course depending on the plant, it could potentially survive years without repotting. But if you want your plant to thrive, think about giving it some fresh soil and even room to grow every few years!

Need help gathering the materials you’ll need for repotting plants? Our Deluxe Repotting Kit is a complete set of items to make repotting a breeze!

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Indoor plants, potted & delivered.

Premium plants paired with stylish ceramics. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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Summer is here, and you can probably feel the weather begin to warm up. Perhaps the air is feeling a bit dry, or you’ve caved in and turned on the air conditioning (we have, too!).

Our houseplants experience changes during seasonal shifts just like we do, but caring for them during the sunniest season doesn’t have to be stressful. Read on, and be soothed! Like you, your plant doesn’t have to get a sunburn (or any other ailment for that matter). An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Here are a few things to look out for when caring for your plants in the summer.

Drooping Leaves

Alarmed because your perennially perky plant is exhibiting sulky, drooping foliage? Don’t worry, you didn’t offend them! They’re probably just thirsty. During the warmer months of the year, your plant’s moisture evaporates more quickly from its soil, so you may need to water it more frequently than you would in fall and winter. Check your plant’s moisture levels by sticking your finger in its topsoil (the 1-2 inches of soil below its layer of decorative moss) or by using a moisture meter, and be sure to water it whenever that soil layer is dry. Be in the habit of probing your plant regularly, because its moisture intake will ramp up as the temperature rises. 

Seasonal Plant Pests

As far as we know, no houseplant owner enjoys finding bugs on their green companions. They can be unnerving, gross, and yes, they can bug you out. But it’s a fact of life that when it’s summertime, and your plants are lookin’ good insects may be tempted to move into that palatial new home!

Don’t panic— there are solutions!

The first, which we employ daily at our headquarters, is our organic Black Soap spray. This all-natural soap is a potent insecticide, even as it shines your plant’s leaves and boosts its health by allowing it to photosynthesize with ease. 

The second option, and you can opt to use both simultaneously, is neem oil. Neem oil is an all-natural pest repellent and eradicator extracted from--you guessed it--the neem tree! By diluting neem oil in water and spraying it on your plant’s foliage and soil, you’ll eradicate pests without harming your plants. Other insecticides can work wonders as well, and many treat pests at the source: deep in the soil. Don’t be afraid to ask an associate at your local nursery or home supply store to guide you toward an effective indoor houseplant insecticide if you feel you need an instant fix.

Pests like spider mites love warmer temperatures and can be more commonly seen in summer.

Air Conditioning Distress

Don’t get us wrong, we love the AC (we live in SoCal!) And we understand that air conditioning is a necessary evil for many of us. But it can create issues for houseplants, so it’s important to give them extra care during the AC season. Air conditioning can sap much of the natural humidity out of your home environment’s air, causing your plants to become dry and experience yellowing or browning foliage. This should be combatted on two fronts: first, by diligently checking the moisture of your plant’s soil, as it will compensate by drinking more even as the dry air causes the soil’s moisture to evaporate. Secondly, this dryness should be countered by misting your plant regularly. 

Misting is a fun, safe way to commune with your plant and give it the humidity it’s missing. So mist away, and enjoy this plant care ritual! 

A Note On Drafts

It’s important to mention that in addition to lowering your space’s humidity overall, direct drafts can irritate your plant. Being faced with a constant barrage of cold, dry air is ideal for no one- and your plants are no exception. So during the summer, make sure that all houseplants are moved away from the path of direct drafts. If you’re concerned that this might alter the amount of light they receive, consult our light guide for guidance on the best spot for your plant based on its lighting requirements.

For a full list of summer plant care tips, head this way. And remember—the key to successful plant ownership is patience because after all, plants are living things that adapt and change to their environments, just like us!

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Easy Care Plants, Delivered

Beautifully potted plants, plus lifetime plant care support. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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Have you ever wondered when humans began keeping houseplants? We did, so we took a break from trimming our Braided Money Trees and did a bit of research. It turns out the history of houseplants goes way, way back. And while we all know about some, iconic plant/human pairings (Persephone and her pomegranate, Eve and a certain Tree of Knowledge, the list goes on!) we wanted to delve deep into the history of potted, indoor houseplants in particular. After all, they’re our passion! 

So take a stroll into the past with us to learn about the history of potted houseplants, and how they’ve grown to become the steadfast interior accent they are today!

The very first indoor plants

According to the Encyclopedia Britannica, the practice of indoor gardening with potted plants can be traced back to the early Greeks and Romans. Older civilizations like Ancient Egypt, India, and China also made use of potted plants, but mostly in outdoor spaces and courtyards. For pots, terracotta reigned supreme-- with the exception of the Ancient Romans, who gravitated toward marble planters (so chic!).

Japanese, Vietnamese and Chinese cultures have unique traditions of dwarfing trees for ornamental purposes, known variably as Hòn Non Bộ, Penjing and Bonsai. These plants were designed to reflect the form of fully-grown trees in nature, and were often accompanied by decorative rocks and even water features to simulate natural landscapes.

The Hanging Gardens of Babylon, in what is now modern-day Iraq, even featured a custom garden, specially curated for the wife of King Nebuchadnezzar II. It showcased the foliage of her homeland, with date trees, statuesque cedars and meadows.

The Renaissance and Beyond

The Middle Ages weren’t great for houseplants, or, it can be argued, for much of anything! During this period in Europe, cultivated indoor plants were largely restricted to monasteries, and plants were grown for practical purposes (primarily for food and medicine) rather than for pleasure or aesthetics.

So, thank goodness for the Renaissance and the cultural transformations it ushered in! During the renaissance, orangeries came in vogue, and global exploration, a la Christopher Columbus, meant that an influx of new-world foliage was brought home to showcase in Europe. 

The Ultimate Horticulturists: 1840-1930

With industrialization and the Victorian era, ordinary peoples’ homes were beginning to resemble more closely the homes we know today. They were warmer, thanks to central heating from coal or iron furnaces, which allowed people to take their cultivation of indoor houseplants to new heights. Ferns were exceptionally popular for their dense, luxurious foliage, and were often placed in pillar-style containers called jardiniere. Other plants that we still know and love (and sell on Léon & George!) were popular as well, like Cast Iron Plants and Kentia Palms. 

In the late 1920s, potted houseplants became available on the market for the first time (prior to this period, it was necessary to grow one’s houseplants from bulbs or seeds). The first nursery to offer potted houseplants to the market was based in Southern California-- truly a dream land for plants, and where Léon & George is based today! 

The remarkable ease of purchasing potted, grown houseplants inspired a tremendous wave of new plant owners. Plant and garden societies sprouted wildly, and fashion and interior design trends were replete with florals and botanical prints. 

Earth-First Decor: the 1960s and 1970s 

The 1960s and 1970s were all about reverence for greenery and nature. Pothos varieties, Staghorn Ferns and more were used to create fecund indoor jungles, often paired with macrame, hand-built ceramics, and nature-themed decor. Many of the current trends in plant styling are throwbacks to this fertile time of peace, love and plant worship.

Minimal Accents: the 1980s and 1990s

The 1980s and 1990s looked to the future (and sometimes to space!) for stylistic inspiration. Popular materials were minimal and fresh, like glass, lucite and industrial metal. Plant styling took a backseat during the 1980s, and stylish designers limited their greenery to thoughtfully placed focal plants which played well with gleaming surfaces and geometric designs. 

The 1990s brought with them a resurgence in popularity of the orchid. From Susan Orlean’s The Orchid Thief to high-fashion prints worn by the likes of Madonna, orchids were the ultimate iconoclastic plant variety of the 90s, blending femininity with their famously sculptural silhouettes.

The Aughts to Today

Houseplants experienced a resurgence in popularity in the early 2000s, and have remained steadfast components of interior decor trends for the last two decades, with water-wise varieties holding court in the spotlight for the last twenty years. As our climate changes and we embrace minimalism, (then maximalism!) the junglelow (and the drought garden!), vibrant, easy-care varieties like succulents, cacti and hardy plants like Snake Plants or sansevierias continue to reign supreme. 

Credit: Encyclopedia Brittanica & Mirror80

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Indoor plants, potted & delivered.

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Snake Plants & Soggy Spots

The Snake Plant or sansevieria is a member of the succulent family, making it super adaptable to almost any environment and incredibly low maintenance. Despite its easy-going attitude, there are still a few easy traps to fall prey to.

• Soggy fronds and brown tips are a result of overwatering or an inconsistent watering schedule. With shallow root systems, they're susceptible to root rot which will cause fronds to tip over and show soggy spots.

  • To treat, first identify if root rot has occurred. If yes, trim infected roots and change the soil. If no, start decreasing the amount of water you give the plant and get on a regular schedule.

  • Brown tips can be trimmed, but leave a thin sliver of dried edge to avoid further damage to the plant.

• Scars are common but can be easily avoided. Even though Snake Plants are hearty and can survive a wide range of conditions, they don't have the toughest skin. Any bumps or scratches will cause the skin to break and eventually scar.

  • While you can't remove the scars, eventually, they'll appear smaller as the plant grows and therefore less noticeable. Keep your plant in a low traffic area to avoid the risk of more damage.

• Fronds that fold in on themselves is less common, but a crucial problem to remedy as quickly as possible. An infestation of a pest called Thrips is likely the cause. They're nearly impossible to see, but can be harmful to the plant if left untreated. 

  • Remove any fronds that are curled in or are suspect to infection. Wipe down remaining leaves with Neem Oil, check every few weeks and re-apply to avoid re-infestation.

SNAKE PLANT

A large succulent and thus extremely adaptable and low maintenance – the perfect starter plant. It is also a terrific air purifier, making it a healthy and attractive addition to any indoor space.

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In our Dear Plant Stylist series, we share styling and lighting inquiries received by our in-house stylists with our audience. So read on-- you just might find that your plant styling questions are answered below! 

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Dear Plant Stylist,

I love plants and I want to have them in my home, but I travel a lot. I’m worried that if I take the plunge and get some, they’ll just die while I’m out of town, which would be a) expensive and b) demoralizing. Are there any truly easy-care plants that can be left alone for a week or two on end? Can I even have nice plants?

Best,

A. S. in San Diego

Dear A., 

I understand your worries, but I’m going to share a little secret with you: contrary to popular belief, there are so many beautiful plants out there that will do just fine while you’re away. In fact, most plants tend to fare better in the absence of helicopter parents!

Furthermore, most of our plants don’t require much watering-- indoor plants tend to like having their topsoil (the top two inches of soil beneath the layer of decorative moss on a Léon & George plant) dry out entirely before being watered again. 

Some of these plants are even considered drought resistant, meaning that they can go even weeks without a drop of water.

It will be useful to get a sense of the light that your space receives, so be sure to check out the Light Requirements For Plants: Explained! blog post before placing your order.

The drought-resistant Snake Plant is one of the best plants for avid travelers, as it can go weeks without water.

For large floor plants, I would recommend Monstera Deliciosas and Snake Plants. Both exhibit gorgeous height, do just fine with medium light, and need to be watered only sparingly. 

For an extra large statement plant, I’d suggest a Dracaena Lisa, which is flexible in terms of light, super-adaptable, and requires watering only when its topsoil is dry. Depending on your environment, this will likely be around every ten days to two weeks, but you can also use a moisture meter to keep track of it. 

The Dracaena Lisa is a wonderful low-maintenance statement plant to fill out tired or empty corners.

Draceana Lisas make gorgeous focal points: they average six feet in height from bottom of pot to topmost leaf, and their foliage is deeply tonal and verdant. 

A Dracaena Lisa would be best situated 5+ feet from any windows. 

For easy-care accent plants, I recommend medium Zanzibar Gems. Zanzibar Gems grow from rhizomes, which are tuber-shaped root sacs that hold water and feed it gradually to the plant. These root sacs mean that Zanzibar Gems need to be watered only rarely-- they control the amount of water they release to their foliage, and are exceptionally low-maintenance and independent because of this behavior!

The Zanzibar Gem stores water in its roots, making for an incredibly low maintenance houseplant.

One last thing to keep in mind: there are lots of solutions if you do have an eye on a plant that requires a bit more attention. Things like self-watering hydrospikes are great to plug into your thirstier plants while you’re away.

Happy planting, A! Avid travelers and indoor houseplants truly can go together like peanut butter and jelly. We usually see that over-care (like overwatering) is what bothers houseplants, not neglect. So rest easy, because your low-maintenance plants should thrive in your absence!

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Easy Care Plants, Delivered

Beautifully potted plants, plus lifetime plant care support. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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The Calathea

Part of the prayer plant family, the stunning Calathea is arguably one of Mother Nature’s most beautiful creations. With seemingly painted on leaves with brushstrokes of deep green and fuschia tones, prayer plants as they’re often called are known not just for their variegated beauty but also for their movement: their leaves rise and fall throughout the day in response to the light they receive. But though this plant is an increasingly popular choice, it remains a relatively high-maintenance houseplant and requires a bit of extra TLC to keep those leaves perky and shining. Read on to find a comprehensive guide to Calathea care over time.

What type of light do Calatheas need?

In their natural habitat, Calatheas grow in shady tropical areas. A such, they prefer medium to bright indirect light and will scorch in direct sunlight.

How to water your Calathea

Keep the soil evenly moist, never allowing it to completely dry out but also taking care not let the plant become oversaturated or waterlogged. Read our Ultimate Guide to watering the Calathea for tips and tricks.

How fast do Calatheas grow?

In prime conditions, this plant grows relatively fast and can reach up to two feet in height. Fertilize your plant 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Common problems with Calathea Plants

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Calathea

Take care of your Calathea and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for and growing your plant over time.

Pruning Your Calathea

To keep your plant healthy and strong, you may trim older or unhappy looking leaves. If there is just a small portion of a leaf that was damaged (due to underwatering, overwatering, etc), you can trim the leaf following the natural shape of the leaf.

Cleaning Your Plant

Take each leaf between two soft tissue cloths and wipe off the top to reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).

How to repot the Calathea

It is a good idea to repot your calathea once every year or every other year to give it fresh soil and nutrients.

• When to repot - Once a year or every other year.

• Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow wider, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same size, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

• Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate a Calathea

The best way to propagate your plant is through division.

• Divide the roots - When repotting, determine which areas you will divide to create new plants. Carefully untangle the roots with your hands.

• Place in fresh soil - Place the new divisions in fresh soil and water thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy-- it may take 2-4 weeks for your plant to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes.

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Calathea Medallion

A stunning prayer plant with a deep color palette of leaves painted by nature.

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You probably know me by now, but if you’ve just swooped in, I’m George: feathered co-founder of Léon & George, and resident Green-Cheeked Conure, often found tweeting! I’m always amped to celebrate Father’s Day (shoutout to my human Dad, Nico!) and this year it falls on June 20, so I’m not a moment too soon in sharing my gifting insights for this extra-special Springtime celebration. 

Without further ado, check out my shortlist of the very best Father’s Day Gifts. And shop with confidence, because all of the products listed here are sustainably crafted, friendly to Mother Earth (of course!) and sure to thrill Dad!

Incense of the West Teepee Burner 

Is there anything more nostalgic than a classic, Incense of the West terracotta incense burner? I think not. And Incense of the West’s incest is handcrafted and all-natural, so you can be sure that there’s no adverse effect on the air quality of Dad’s house (which, if it’s full of Léon and George plants, should be very clean and purified indeed!).

Druthers Organic Cotton Gradient Crew Sock

It is a truth universally acknowledged that all Dads love socks. And if you have a stylin’ Dad (or a Dad you’d love to style) you can’t go wrong with the groovy gradient of these organic cotton, vibrantly purple crew socks from NYC-based Druthers.

Left to right: House of Botanicals watering can, Incense of the West teepee burner, Léon & George Braided Money Tree

Léon & George Tiger Evergreen

We can’t get over our brand-new Tiger Evergreen. It’s so lush, so vibrant, and just so cool. Add some jungle vibrations to Dad’s man-cave with the ultimate low-maintenance, verdant Evergreen!

Juniper Ridge Coastal Pine Candle

We love Juniper Ridge. They’re Bay Area based (where our company began!) and their products are made through a painstaking process of hiking, distilling and wildcrafting. A Juniper Ridge product is always something you can feel good about buying, and their scents are bar-none exquisite: directly reminiscent and redolent of the environments in which the ingredients were hand-harvested! I recommend their Coastal Pine Candle above all, to bring to memory camping trips and walks spent with Dad.

Mollusk Scallop Trunks

Are you hitting the beach with Dad this Father’s Day? If so, don’t skimp on the trunks! These classic-cut trunks are the perfect indigo shade and trust me, they’re comfy. We love CA-based Mollusk for their nostalgic style- think Gidget, Endless Summer, etc!

Left to right: Druther’s gradient crew socks, Léon & George Tiger Evergreen, Juniper Ridge Coastal Pine candle

Léon & George Braided Money Tree  

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the best gift of all- bestower of good fortune, friend of feng shui, and, some say, a mystical catalyst for increased cash flow! It’s the large Braided Money Tree, and it’s an easy-care, low-maintenance plant that’s the perfect fit for Dad’s home or office. 

House of Botanicals Watering Can & Mister and Moisture Meter Five Pack

Like peanut butter and jelly, these gifts are best enjoyed together! The House of Botanicals Watering Can & Mister is a handy two-for-one, with a long spout for watering as well as a spray nozzle, so Dad can mist his plants to his heart’s content! Our Moisture Meter Five Packs are available in small, medium and large sizes to correspond with the size of Dad’s Léon & George plants, and they take the mystery out of any watering routine! Oh, and if Dad has run out, our Core Refill Pack includes five refills, so we’ve got him covered! 

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George is the co-founder of Léon & George. Along with his feline business partner, Léon, he helps reconnect people with nature by offering stylish indoor greenery that fits busy lifestyles and enhances indoor spaces. George resides in Los Angeles, California, and you can find him on Twitter.

If you’re reading this, you’re probably already an aficionado of the Snake Plant— and for good reason! They’re striking and sculptural, and they are renowned for their low-maintenance disposition. 

A member of the Sansevieria genus, Sansevieria trifasciata is the variety that we champion here at Léon & George. Also known as Mother-In-Law’s Tongue and Snake Tongue, the Sansevieria trifasciata is emblematic of every trait that makes this species special (That variegation! That height!).

Snake Plants are a shoo-in for any discerning plant parent seeking to enhance the aesthetic of their living space, and they’re truly as simple as 1-2-3. But like every plant, even the hardy Snake Plant has unique characteristics and needs. So read on, because we’re sharing the ten essential commandments of Snake Plant care!

1. Gentle Light is Best

Don’t worry: Snake Plants really are as tolerant of varied light conditions as you’ve heard. That being said, they don’t love the intensity of bright direct light. So if possible, it’s best to place your Snake Plant somewhere it’ll receive a good amount of indirect light. You want to keep your Snake Plant’s leaves verdant and emerald, not scorched.

2. Drop That Can: A Caution Against Overwatering

We know, you’re excited! You want to commune with your plant by stroking it, singing to it, (perhaps playing “Plantasia” to it…) and of course, by watering it. But wait! It’s important to be sure that your Snake Plant is ready to be watered. They typically only need to be watered every ten days to two weeks, and can go even longer without watering. 

Remember, the best way to know for certain that your Snake Plant is ready for watering, is to...

Moisture Meters

Sleek design and simple to use, a plant tool that will tell you exactly when to water your plants.

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3. Get Dirty!

It’s tempting to want to schedule the things that are important to you (ahem, Google Calendar and constant Zooms.) But going based on a calendar- or a clock- is not the best way to keep track of when to water any of your plants.

This is where getting dirty comes into the equation. Snake Plants want to be watered only when their topsoil (the top 1-2 inches of soil, beneath the decorative moss) are dry. So check your moisture levels by lifting up a bit of the Snake Plant’s decorative moss, sticking your finger into the top 1-2 inches, and determining whether it is dry or still moist. If it’s moist, hold off on watering until it dries.

4. Keep An Eye Out for Squatters- Yes, We Mean Bugs

At L&G, we take extra-special care to prepare our plants for a pristine and insect-free life. And of course, we do guarantee that our plants are lovingly cleaned and prophylactically treated for bugs before we ship them out. When bugs occur, they occur in the plant’s new environment— and it’s most common when they move in with other plants, in spaces that have higher levels of humidity. 

Snake Plants are adored by a bug called the thrip, a tiny black insect that can do damage over time. If you’re concerned your environment may have bugs, lift your Snake Plant and give it a shake over a piece of white paper. If you see that tiny black bugs have fallen off the plant, you may be unwittingly housing thrips. 

But don’t panic! You can simply remove severely damaged leaves with clean, sharp shears or scissors, spray the Snake Plant thoroughly with water, and wipe it down with a clean cloth. A follow-up regimen of neem oil or diluted, organic soap can be helpful as well. 

5. Shine On, You Crazy Sansevieria 

If you notice that your Snake Plant is lacking luster, you can return it to a healthy shine with a little TLC. Just use two soft cloths and wipe off the blades one by one, from base to tip. This also helps your Snake Plant’s photosynthesis-- less dust on the blades makes it easier for the plant to drink up light. 

6. Don’t Crack Up! 

If you notice that your Snake Plant is showing cracks on its blades, don’t worry— this doesn’t signal an issue in your care regime. Cracking in blades is a naturally occurring trait of Snake Plants. Think of them as being like the veins in Carrara marble— they denote the natural beauty of the plant. 

Léon & George Snake Plant

7. SOS- I’ve Overwatered! 

So, your Snake Plant has been overwatered. Maybe you had an overzealous plant-sitter, or maybe you didn’t want your Sansevieria to experience FOMO as you drank your weekend prosecco by her side. Don’t worry— we’ve got you.

Your Snake Plant may exhibit symptoms of overwatering by showing mushy or soggy leaves. (Trust us, you’ll know them when you see them.) If you suspect overwatering, remove your Snake Plant from its ceramic pot and its plastic nursery pot. Take a look at the soil and roots. 

If it’s a swamp down there, leave your Snake Plant out of the ceramic pot (but inside the plastic nursery pot) until at least half of its potting soil is dry. After a few days, you should be able to return the plant and plastic pot to the ceramic pot. 

Be sure to check periodically that no excess water is gathering in the bottom of the ceramic pot.

8. Patience, Patience

Snake Plants are somewhat slow growers, especially if they are in environments with low light. This can be great if you think your plant is perfectly sized at the time of its purchase! If you want your Snake Plant to grow, it will reward you in time. Just make sure you keep your Snake Plant in a spot where it receives ample indirect sunlight. You can also fertilize it in the spring and summer months for an extra energy boost.

9. Don’t Be Afraid to Repot

Snake Plants don’t need to be repotted often, but when they do, they’ll let you know! You’ll likely see that your Snake Plant’s roots are beginning to outgrow its pot. 

If you just want to freshen your Snake Plant’s soil, you can repot it in the same ceramic pot. This can be a good idea as over time, soil loses its nutrients- they’re used up by the plants to keep them growing healthy and strong. Just remove the Snake Plant from its pot and shake off as much of the old soil from its base and roots as possible. Then place the plant in the center of the pot, add new nutrient-rich soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil and place the Snake Plant in an area with bright, indirect light.

The same instructions go for re-potting in a new pot— just pot your Snake Plant into a ceramic pot with a diameter at least two inches larger than its original pot. For more information on how to repot your Snake Plant or any other plant, click here.

10. Pair Your Snake Plant With a Peer

Plants like to be grouped among other plants, and if you arrange them close to each other, there are benefits to be had- like a microbiome that regulates humidity, the simplification of your watering routine.

That being said, it’s important to be sure that the plants you’re pairing in a group have the same basic requirements for care, especially light. It’s best not to situate your Snake Plant next to another plant that needs frequent watering, because accidental overwatering of a Snake Plant can cause serious damage to the plant’s health. 

Consider situating your Snake Plant next to another easy-care plant like the Zanzibar Gem. Like Snake Plants, they prefer to be watered sparingly and can are tolerant of varied light levels.

Embrace your Snake Plant and maximize its benefits! 

Snake Plants are exceptional air purifiers. According to NASA, they are incredibly effective at filtering out environmental toxins like formaldehyde and xylene. They also convert carbon dioxide into oxygen at night, so they’re a great choice for a bedroom plant.

The Snake Plant is a newbie plant owner’s dream and an experienced green thumb’s vacation plant- they thrive with remarkably little care. So embrace your Snake, and remember the old adage: Less is More when it comes to caring for your Sansevieria. 

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Indoor plants, potted & delivered

Premium plants paired with stylish ceramics, plus lifetime plant care support. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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