Root rot is common issue with indoor plants, and can be a very serious problem with the popular Fiddle Leaf Fig. Though this plant is prone to browning and dropping leaves, if root rot goes untreated it can lead to the quick demise of your plant. So what is root rot? In this article we’ll explain what causes root rot, how to treat it, and what to do to prevent future cases!

What causes root rot?

How to diagnose root rot

How to treat root rot on Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees

What Causes Root Rot?

As the name implies, root rot is caused by an accumulation of moisture or humidity in the plant’s soil due to overwatering. Like most indoor plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs like to dry out a bit in between waterings, and by watering them too frequently or too much, they may develop a nasty rot that will first infect the roots below the soil and later begin to show up top by browning or dropping leaves. Root rot may also be caused by a lack of drainage in the pot, or a combination of less than ideal or no drainage and overwatering.

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How to Diagnose Root Root in a Fiddle Leaf Fig

Root rot can be difficult to diagnose by looking plainly at a potted plant. Even a Fiddle that appears to be relatively dry on the surface of its soil may be in the processing of rooting down below. The only way to truly know is to see the roots below the surface. If you are noticing signs of distress like dropping or browning leaves on your plant, you may want to remove the plant from its pot and have a look.

Here are a few clear signs your Fiddle Leaf Fig has root rot:

1. Wet, soggy, or mushy brown roots

2. Dripping, soaked, or waterlogged soil and roots

3. An unpleasant smell in the soil or around the roots

The beginning signs of root rot: the roots on the left are healthy and strong, whereas the roots on the right are soggy and waterlogged.

Once a section of the roots begins to rot, this can spread through the rest of the root system and begin to travel up to the leaves of the plant.

How to Save Your Fiddle Leaf Fig from Root Rot

Root rot in Fiddle Leaf Figs does not necessarily mean certain death, though catching it quickly is important if you want to save the plant. At the first sign of distress, remove your plant from its pot and carefully inspect the roots. Is there accumulated moisture around the base of the plants? Do the roots feel mushy or are they turning dark brown?

If so, act immediately by following these steps and repotting your plant:

1. Rinse all the roots throughly with water. Once they are clean, remove any that are damaged with a pair of clean scissors or pruning shears.

2. With a new container with good drainage, repot your plant with fresh, fast-draining soil. You may consider adding some gravel or a foam block to the bottom of your container to improve the drainage and help keep your plant dry.

3. Place your Fiddle in bright, indirect light (these plants are picky about this!) and water once. Do not water again until you’re positive the roots have dried out. This may be anywhere from one to two weeks or more depending on the size of the plant and the temperature it lives in. Erring on the side of underwatering is usually best!

Repot your fiddle leaf fig with fresh potting soil in the well-draining container. Then, water once and make sure the excess water is draining out of the bottom of the container. After that, wait. Do not water again until you’re sure the roots have had a chance to dry out. You can also use a moisture meter to check the bottom of your plant.

Your plant may still lose a few leaves at first, so be patient and wait for the plant to stabilize. You may remove the heavily damaged leaves, and trim some of the slightly damaged ones to remove the brown edges. Make sure not to remove too much of the plant (a good general rule is no more than 30%), as this may throw the plant into further shock. Whatever the case, with a bit of water, light, and love, your Fiddle has a good chance of recovering!

This post was adapted from the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource by expert Claire Akin. Head to their website to learn more about caring for the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

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Monstera Deliciosa

AKA philodendron split-leaf

This stylish and iconic plant from the art deco era has made a comeback in a big way and is more popular than ever. Learn the basics of Monstera plant care including light requirements, watering frequency, and how to troubleshoot common problems you may encounter along the way.

And if you’re looking to dive even deeper, take note of the 10 commandments of Monstera care!

1. Lighting, watering, and growth

2. Common problems

3. Maintenance

4. Propogating

What type of light do Monsteras need?

Monsteras prefer bright indirect light, though they can adjust to medium levels of light. Keep them out of harsh direct sunlight, as too much of it can scorch their leaves.

How to water your Monstera

Let your Monstera dry out between waterings. Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week. Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months.

How fast do Monsteras grow?

In prime conditions, the Monstera is an incredibly fast grower and can grow up to 10 feet tall indoors. Fertilize your Monstera 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Common problems with Monsteras

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Monstera Deliciosa

Take care of your Monstera and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Monstera over time.

Pruning Your Monstera

Remove dry or dead leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring and summer months. When pruning your Monstera, use sharp, clean shears and cut any excessive growth at the base of the stem.

Cleaning

Take each leaf between two soft tissue cloths and wipe off the top to reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).

How to Repot a Monstera

Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

• When to repot - Monsteras are known for their aerial roots, and it’s not uncommon to see them outside of the soil. However, the plant will show you it’s ready for a bigger pot when the time comes, as the larger stems, and their roots, will literally begin to climb out of the pot.

• Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

• Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

  Staking Monstera

  Some Monstera owners like to stake their plant not only for aesthetic purposes but also to support the plant and help it grow more vertically. You can do this by simply inserting a moss totem and attaching the stems of the plant to it with prongs. See our full guide on how to stake the Monstera here.

How to propagate a Monstera Deliciosa

Whether you want to recycle your Monstera cuttings or you simply want to create a new plant, know that the Monstera, thanks to its aerial roots, is one of the easiest plants to propagat. Though there are many ways to do this, water propagation is generally the easiest way to go about it. Follow these instructions to propagate your Monstera Deliciosa:

• Select a stem to propagate - Using sharp, clean scissors or shears, cut an inch or two below an aerial root. You don’t have to propagate with an aerial root, but this is a guaranteed way of propagation success!

• Place in water - Find a clear glass and fill with water. Make sure only the stem is submerged, and no leaves are sitting in the water.

• Place in a bright area and wait! - Avoid any direct sun. You may need to change the water out every few days to keep it fresh. It usually takes just a few days for the root to start growing.

• Transfer to soil - After a week or so, transfer to indoor potting soil. A small pot is best — no larger than 6” in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - During the first few weeks, or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your Monstera. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times.

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The Bird of Paradise

AKA strelitzia nicolai

With enormous glossy leaves and lush jungle vibes, the Bird of Paradise (strelitzia nicolai) is a true head-turner when brought indoors. Named after its colorful flower which resembles a bird in flight, this stylish yet hardy plant is perfect for plant novices and experts alike. Read on for simple tips on how to care for your plant and enjoy years and years of growth.

1. Light, watering, and growth

2. Common problems with Birds of Paradise

3. Maintenance

4. Repotting your Bird of Paradise

5. How to propagate a Bird of Paradise

What type of light does the Bird of Paradise need?

This plant prefers bright indirect light, though unlike most indoor plants, it can also handle fair amounts of direct sunlight. Beware, though, as prolonged periods of harsh direct sun (think summer afternoon sun) will burn the leaves unless the plant is slowly acclimated to such conditions.

How to water the Bird of Paradise

Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week. Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months. To increase humidity, mist regularly or use a humidifier.

How fast does the Bird of Paradise grow?

In prime conditions, this plant is a fast grower and can grow up to 10 feet tall indoors! As these are such fast growers, fertilize once every two weeks in spring and summer, or foliar feed year round.

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Common problems with Birds of Paradise

Leaves splitting

A lot of people worry that the splits in the leaves of the Bird of Paradise are a sign of something wrong, but the truth is that split leaves in this plant are completely normal. As part of nature's design, the splits allow wind to pass through the leaves without bending, breaking, or uprooting the top heavy plant. While splitting may be reduced by keeping the plant indoors, it is still common and completely normal for this to occur.

Brown edges - underwatering

If you see crispy, brown edges, it could be that it’s underwatered or the environment is too dry. This plant likes a lot of humidity and are generally pretty thirsty plants — do not place this plant near air vents or heaters. Make sure you are watering your plant regularly, and also add misting to your routine to boost humidity levels for the plant’s foliage (you can mist every day, several times a day, or just a couple times a week!).

Yellow leaves - overwatering

If you see yellowing wilted leaves, it could be that your plant is overwatered. Check the roots to make sure there is no root rot. If the roots are damaged, you will need to repot your plant (see below). If the roots are fine, simply let the plant dry out before watering again.

Curling leaves

If the leaves on your plant are curling inward, the cause is most likely also underwatering. To let your plant replenish its moisture, give it a good shower. Remove the plant from its decorative pot and place in a shower, bathtub, or outside. Give it a thorough watering, allowing it to drain all the excess out before putting back in the pot. Depending on how dry the plant is, you may also allow it to sit in water for an hour or two.



How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Bird of Paradise

Take care of your Bird of Paradise and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your plant over time.

Pruning your Bird of Paradise

This plant does not mind an occasional haircut. With clean shears, cut off older or less attractive stalks at the base. Your plant will have more energy for new growth!

Cleaning

Big leaves means more dust. Take each leaf between two soft tissue cloths and wipe off the top to reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).

Trimming & reshaping

Have some leaves that are perfectly healthy but have a few cosmetic damages? Simply trim the leaf to imitate its natural shape. You also may notice your Bird of Paradise’s leaves occasionally split. This is completely natural and not much you can do about it. Obviously, the more this plant is touched, bumped into, moved, etc, the more the leaves will split.

How to repot a Bird of Paradise

Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth. Keep in mind, though, that most plants like to have their roots tightly compacted.

When to repot - if the roots start to become visible outside the soil, it is time to consider repotting your plant.

Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate a Bird of Paradise

Propagating a Bird of Paradise is best done through division. That said, because Birds of Paradise like to have their roots tightly packed, it is best to only propagate from a plant that has a lot to spare or has outgrown its pot.

• Spread a newspaper on the floor and remove the plant from its pot - You should see a giant mass of roots!

• Determine which pieces of the plant you will divide - Carefully begin to separate or untangle the roots. If you need to cut, use clean shears.

• Repot in fresh soil - Once you have your divided pieces, repot in fresh soil, pack down tightly, and water thoroughly. You’re done!

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes.

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Bird of Paradise

With large, elegant and shining leaves, the Bird of Paradise is a popular indoor plant for creating an instant jungle atmosphere.

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The Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree, known for its sculptural shape and stick-thin trunk, is arguably the “it” plant of the moment. If you are not familiar yet, you will be soon: this incredibly gorgeous tree, which also comes in bush or columnar form, appears in magazines, design blogs, and all over Instagram. But despite the popularity, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is not necessarily the easiest of plants to take care of. It is notoriously finicky, and is known to drop leaves with even the most minimal change in its watering schedule, temperature, or environment. Worth it? We think so. Read on for simple tips on how to care for and grow the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree.

1. Light, watering, and growth

2. Common problems with Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees

3. Maintaining the beauty of your Fiddle over time

4. How to propagate Fiddle Leaf Figs

Light Requirements for Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees

The Fiddle prefers bright indirect light — and a lot of it. If you place this plant in an area of medium to low light, it will quickly start to lose leaves. However, leaves may scorch in harsh direct sunlight, so keep it out of strong rays of sun. Read our guide on finding the perfect placement of your Fiddle Leaf Fig.

How to water Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees

Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once every ten days or so. Avoid overwatering, and keep in mind that watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months. Read our ultimate guide to watering the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Growth Rate

In prime conditions, the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree is a fast grower and can grow up to 10 feet tall indoors. Make sure to fertilize your plant regularly during the spring and summer.

Shop beautiful Buy a Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees at leonandgeorge.com

FIDDLE LEAF FIG TREES

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Common problems with Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees

Yellow or brown leaves - overwatering

• Symptom - leaves turning yellow or brown, usually starting at the center of the leaf

• Cause - overwatering and/or not enough sunlight

• Remedy - allow soil to dry out completely, sometimes this can take 2-3 weeks. Check the soil’s moisture through the drainage holes at the bottom. Overwatering can lead to more severe ailments like root rot and that may eventually require you change the soil.  

Yellow or brown leaves - underwatering

• Symptom - leaves turning yellow or brown, usually starting at the edge of the leaf

• Cause - underwatering

• Remedy - give your plant a full shower! Take it out of its decorative pot and put in a bathtub, shower or outdoor area and give it a thorough watering. You may even let it sit in water for a few hours so that the roots can drink from the bottom. Let it drain out completely before returning it to its decorative pot.

Leaf drop - overwatering or underwatering

• Symptom - leaves dropping, either at the bottom of the plant or from all areas of the plant

• Cause - usually overwatered fiddles will drop their bottom leaves, while underwatered fiddles will drop leaves from anywhere on the plant.

• Remedy - follow instructions above for either overwatered or underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig plants!

Leaf droop - underwatered or too warm

• Symptom - leaves sagging or drooping

• Cause - fiddles will sometimes begin to droop if it’s warm and they are thirsty

• Remedy - adjust your watering schedule. During warm summer months, your plant may need more frequent waterings.

Is this all very confusing? Fiddles are known for that. Dive deeper on some common issues with the Fiddle Leaf Fig:

• How to tell the difference between overwatering and underwatering

• Where you should place your Fiddle for best results

• The ultimate guide to watering a Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree.

Shop beautiful Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees at leonandgeorge.com

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Fiddle Leaf Fig

Take care of your Fiddle Leaf Fig and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your plant over time.

• Pruning - Remove dry or dead leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring and summer months. It is not uncommon for fiddles to grow like crazy toward the light (especially if you don’t rotate them!), and if this is the case, you may want to prune it back. When pruning your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree, wear gloves and protect your floor with newspaper — the sap that leaks out can be sticky and damage floors. Use sharp, clean shears and cut just above the node at a 90 degree angle.

• Staking - Sometimes Fiddles can grow so large that they need some extra support. If you’ve pruned and still find your plant leaning, try staking it, or inserting a wooden dowel gently into the soil near the trunk.

• Cleaning - Take a damp cloth or sponge and gentle clean each leaf (this also helps the plant soak in more light!).

• Repotting - Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

  • When to repot - if the roots start to become visible outside the soil (i.e. circling around the grow pot), it is time to consider repotting your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree.

  • Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

Shop beautiful Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees at leonandgeorge.com

How to propagate a Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

Whether you want to recycle your Fiddle Leaf Fig cuttings or you simply want to create a new plant, propagating the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree is relatively simple. Though there are many ways to do this, water propagation is generally the easiest way to go about it. Follow these instructions to propagate your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree:

• Select a small branch to propagate - Using sharp, clean scissors or shears, cut a two to three inch branch just above a node (a leaf joint). Do not cut a branch off with more than three leaves— it will require too much energy to grow roots.

• Place in water - Find a clear glass and fill with water. Make sure only the stem of the branch is submerged, and no leaves are sitting in the water. You may like to use a rooting hormone to increase your chances of rooting.

• Place in a bright area and wait! - Avoid any direct sun. You may need to change the water out every few days to keep it fresh. It could take up to several weeks for your cutting to form roots.

• Transfer to soil - After some time, you will start to see tiny white roots emerging from the cutting. Give it a few more days until the roots have grown, and then transfer to indoor potting soil. A small pot is best — no larger than 6” in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - During the first few weeks, or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your plant. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times.

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Fiddle Leaf Fig

A lush and sculptural plant with elegant violin-shaped leaves, the Fiddle Leaf Fig makes for a dramatic addition to any indoor space.

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The Peace Lily

AKA spathiphyllum

Known for its air-purifying qualities and adaptability, the Peace Lily is a popular indoor plant for homes and offices alike. The common name of this plant, which refers to the flower-like spathes that resemble a white flag of surrender, are also what make this indoor plant unique. Here’s everything you need to know to keep Peace Lily plants healthy and growing.

1. Light, watering, and growth

2. Common problems

3. Maintenance

4. Repotting

5. Propagating

What type of light does the Peace Lily need?

This plant prefers bright indirect light, but can adjust to medium to low light conditions over time. Avoid harsh direct sunlight that may burn your plant’s leaves.

How to water your Peace Lily

Water once or twice a week to keep soil evenly moist but never soggy. Mist regularly to boost humidity.

How fast does the Peace Lily grow?

Peace Lilies are generally slow growers, though can reach up to three feet in height. Fertilize your Peace Lily once a month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Common problems with the Peace Lily

Drooping leaves - underwatering

• Symptom - leaves or entire plant heavily droops

• Cause - underwatered or prolonged dry period

• Remedy - remove the plant from its decorative pot and give a good shower in the sink, allowing it to sit in a dish of water for a few hours before draining and returning to pot

Brown tips - overwatered, air too dry, or too much fertilizer

• Symptom - tips turning brown or drying out

• Cause - if you water your plant too much, it may become too soggy or waterlogged, causing brown tips. However, Peace Lilies love humid environments and if the air is too dry, this may cause brown tips as well. Finally, it’s possible you’ve given your plant too much fertilizer.

• Remedy - if you’ve overwatered, let your plant dry out a bit before watering again. Make sure the plant is not near any air vents or heaters, and mist regularly to boost moisture. if you think you’ve overfertilized your plant, at the next time of watering give it a good shower (like above) to rinse out as much fertilizer from the soil as possible

Not flowering - too little light or too much fertilizer

• Symptom - the plant ceases to flower

• Cause - Peace Lilies can be a bit of a mystery when it comes to flowering. Sometimes they stop flowering even though they are in prime care conditions. One reason is that the plant is not getting enough light (they need plenty of bright, indirect light to flower), or it’s overfertilized

• Remedy - try moving it to a spot with better light conditions. If it’s already in bright indirect light, be patient! Sometimes it takes years for Peace Lilies to flower again.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Peace Lily

Take care of your Peace Lily and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for and growing your Peace Lily over time.

Pruning your Peace lily

Remove unattractive or old leaves from the base of the plant with a clean blade. Never remove more than 30% of the plant at a time.

Trimming Peace Lilies

If there is just a small portion of a leaf that was damaged such as the edges, trim off any discoloration or blemishes by following the natural lines and shape of the leaf.

Keeping Your Peace Lily clean

regularly remove dust or pollen to ensure your plant can soak in as much light as possible. Use a damp cloth and gently wipe the leaf clean while supporting the under side with your other hand.

How to grow and repot the Peace Lily

• Growing - Peace Lilies can be slow growers. During spring and summer, use a diluted fertilizer once a month to give your plant a vitamin boost.

• Repotting - L&G Peace Lilies come in 6” grow pots and only need to be repotted every few years if you notice the roots outgrowing the pot, or to refresh the soil and give it new nutrients. If you’d like your plant to grow larger, find a new grow pot that is 2” larger than its current pot. If you’re happy with the current size, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Getting your hands dirty with or without a yard - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. At the bottom of the grow pot, and a layer of soil, then place the plant in the center of the pot and cover with new soil. Pat down firmly and water thoroughly. Place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate the Peace Lily

Propagating a Peace Lily plant is best done through division and during spring or summer.

• Divide the roots - remove the plant from its container and determine which area you will divide to create new plants. Make sure there are leaves attached to each clump of roots you divide. Carefully untangle the roots and pull apart with your hands or cut through with a clean sharp knife.

• Place in fresh soil - Place the new divisions in fresh soil, press soil firmly and water thoroughly.

• Stabilize - Keep freshly repotted plants in a warm area with bright indirect light, and for Magenta Triostars the soil should be kept moist thought not drenched.

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes.

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Our XL Bird of Paradise making a statement in this newly decorated bathroom. Read more about the best plants for your bathroom.

1. Upgrade your shower curtain

2. Add living greenery

3. Say goodbye to boring bathmats

4. Minimize with smart storage

5. Invest in towels you’ll love

Bathrooms are often low on the list of priorities when decorating our homes, but they shouldn’t be. Generally a clean, minimal (and small!) space, your bathroom is actually one of the easiest spaces to style. With just a few essentials, you can give your bathroom a fresh new look you’ll love.

Upgrade your shower curtain

Image courtesy of Quiet Town.

Show curtains can make or break a bathroom. Think of it as a tapestry that functions as the focal point of your bathroom: would you hang a boring or dingy piece of art in your living room or bedroom? Find a shower curtain that speaks to you, and you’ll find a little bit of joy every time you see it.

LG recommends: Quiet Town’s Marfa Collection.

Add a bit of green

The Parlor Palm in cobalt blue and white mid-century ceramics. Image by Léon & George.

Many plants love the humid environment of bathrooms, and a bit of greenery always goes a long way. Trailing plants add a touch of life to any shelf, and palms an instant jungle feel.

LG recommends: The Cascading Pothos or the Parlor Palm.

Say goodbye to boring bathmats

Image courtesy of Jonathan Adler.

Bathmats are a fun way to add a pop of color or a bit of personality to an otherwise sterile space. And guess what? They don’t have to be a geometric shape.

LG recommends: Reversible zebra print bath mat by Jonathan Adler.

Minimize with practical storage

Image courtesy of The Little Market.

If your bathroom doesn’t have all the storage it needs, consider creative solutions like over-the-toilet shelves, corner shelves, or even a clean, simple crate to house all your toiletries. Not only will decluttering gain you loads of space, but it will also leave you with the impression that your bathroom is that much bigger.

LG recommends: The Little Market’s Color block sisal basket in white.

Invest in towels you’ll love

Image courtesy of Weezie.

Is there anything more wonderful than a luxurious bath towel? It’s a small pleasure almost anyone can appreciate, and what’s best about nice bath towels is that they will last for years and years to come.

LG recommends: Weezie bath towels.

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The Dracaena Lisa (left) and Kentia Palm (right) make for a perfect large dining room duo.

When it comes to creating an inviting and refreshing atmosphere in your dining room, incorporating plants can work wonders. Not only do plants add a touch of natural beauty, but they also purify the air, boost mood, and create a sense of tranquility. Read on to discover how to elevate your dining room with both large statement plants and perfect centerpiece plants. From tall and elegant to cascading and vibrant, these dining room plants will bring life and freshness to your space!

1. Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

2. Bird of Paradise

3. Ficus Audrey

4. Lady Palm

5. Kentia Palm

6. Dracaena Lisa

7. Dracaena Compacta

8. Cascading Pothos

9. Zanzibar Gem

Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

The Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree is an excellent large floor plant for dining rooms.

The Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree (Ficus lyrata) has become a staple in interior design thanks to its large, violin-shaped leaves. This dramatic plant adds a touch of elegance and height to any room, making it an excellent choice for a spacious dining area. Place it in a corner or near a window to allow its glossy leaves to bask in the natural light.

Bird of Paradise

The Bird of Paradise, a stunning indoor plant that effortlessly brings a touch of the jungle to any space.

The Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) is an exotic plant with vibrant, tropical blooms that resemble colorful birds in flight. Its large, paddle-shaped leaves provide a bold and striking visual display. Adding a Bird of Paradise to your dining room can evoke a sense of paradise and create a focal point that is sure to impress your guests.

Ficus Audrey

The Ficus Audrey: the ultimate dining room statement plant.

Ficus Audrey (Ficus benghalensis) is a cousin of the Fiddle Leaf Fig, but with slightly different leaf characteristics. Its velvety, emerald-green leaves have an interesting structure that adds a unique touch to any dining space. This plant thrives in bright, indirect light and can grow quite tall, making it ideal for adding vertical interest to your dining room.

Lady Palm

An easy care statement plant for dining rooms, the Lady Palm is a slow grower that requires little maintenance over time.

The Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa) is a graceful and elegant plant that brings a touch of sophistication to any setting. Its delicate, fan-shaped leaves create a lush and tropical ambiance. This compact palm does well in low light conditions, making it an excellent choice for dining rooms with limited natural light.

Kentia Palm

Add instant lushness to your dining room with the Kentia Palm.

Another palm variety that thrives in indoor environments is the Kentia Palm (Howea forsteriana). This slender and graceful plant features arching, feathery fronds that add a touch of greenery and serenity to your dining space. The Kentia Palm is known for its ability to adapt to various lighting conditions, making it an excellent choice for different dining room setups.

Dracaena Lisa

An easy care dining room plant, the Dracaena Lisa thrives in all light conditions and with minimal care.

The Dracaena Lisa (Dracaena marginata) is a versatile plant that can thrive in various lighting conditions, including low light. Its slender, lance-shaped leaves are edged with vibrant red, providing a pop of color and visual interest. The Dracaena Lisa adds a contemporary touch to your dining room and is relatively low-maintenance, making it an ideal choice for busy households.

Dracaena Compacta

The Dracaena Compacta it is an ideal choice for elevating compact spaces with its impressive height.

The Dracaena Compacta (Dracaena compacta) is a compact and sturdy plant with dark green, glossy leaves that create a sense of lushness and freshness. It is known for its ability to tolerate lower light conditions and is particularly suitable for smaller dining rooms or tabletop arrangements. The Dracaena Compacta brings an element of tranquility to your dining space.

Cascading Pothos

A beautiful Cascading Pothos decorates this festive dining room table.

The Cascading Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular trailing plant that is perfect for creating a lush and cascading centerpiece in your dining room. Its heart-shaped leaves, variegated in shades of green and yellow, bring a touch of liveliness and vibrancy to any space. Hang it in a planter or allow it to gracefully trail down from a shelf for a stunning display.

Zanzibar Gem

The Zanzibar Gem thrives effortlessly in various environments, making it a versatile and low-maintenance choice.

The Zanzibar Gem (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is a resilient and low-maintenance plant that thrives in a variety of lighting conditions, including low light. Its glossy, dark green leaves add a touch of elegance and a lush appearance to your dining room. The Zanzibar Gem makes for an eye-catching centerpiece with its full and attractive foliage.

Anthurium

The King of Hearts Anthurium—a petite and leafy bouquet that blooms with vibrant scarlet flowers throughout the year, ideal for a dining room centerpiece.

With its vibrant, heart-shaped blooms and glossy green leaves, the Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum) is a showstopper in any dining room. This tropical plant adds a burst of color and a touch of exoticism to your space. Place it as a centerpiece on your dining table to create a captivating focal point that will surely spark conversation.

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Designed to Thrive

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Photo: Nicole Franzen

The benefits of indoor plants cover so much more than just our homes and offices, and restaurants have been quick to catch on to the trend. And whether or not you consider yourself a plant person, there’s no denying that a perfect meal is even that more magical when surrounded by nature! From jungle to garden themed and everything in between, check out some of these gorgeous plant-filled restaurants for the perfect lunch or dinner date surrounded by nature’s finest.

Openaire (LA)

Olmsted (Brooklyn)

Aba (Chicago)

Llama Inn (Brooklyn)

Leo’s Oyster Bar (San Francisco)

Bavel (LA)

Frenchie (Boston)

Le Jardinier (NYC)

Openaire (LA)

Photo: The Line

A literal greenhouse (poolside, no less!), Openaire of LA’s Line Hotel is a gorgeous boutique restaurant for modern California fare paired with a healthy dose of lush ferns and tropical foliage.

3515 Wilshire Blvd

Olmsted (Brooklyn)

Photo: Olmsted

In Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights neighborhood, find vertical gardens on the inside and garden beds in their delightful backyard garden. Could it get any better than this?

659 Vanderbilt Ave

Aba (Chicago)

Photo: Aba

From trailing ivies to cascading pothos, we love the way this upscale Chicago restaurant and rooftop lounge makes use of climbing plants throughout their space.

302 N Green St

Llama Inn (Brooklyn)

Photo: @theplaceiwastellingyouabout

Green inside and out, Brooklyn’s Llama Inn serves up delicious Peruvian fare in their plant filled dining room, rooftop bar, and a new outdoor area which they’ve appropriately donned Parque Lllama.

50 Withers Street

Leo’s Oyster Bar (San Francisco)

Photo: Crescent Karasso

There’s a lot to love about the Leo’s Oyster Bar, including its lush wallpaper (adorned with enormous Monstera leaves) and plenty of hanging ferns to literally bring it all to life.

568 Sacramento St

Bavel (Los Angeles)

Photo: Bavel

DTLA is one of the most exciting areas for LA’s food scene, and Bavel is no exception— especially with its gorgeous canopy of trailing vines to dine under!

500 Mateo St

Frenchie (Boston)

Photo: Frenchie Boston

Romance is the word for this Boston gem with blooming florals and a garden-side solarium.

560 Tremont Street

Le Jardinier (NYC)

Photo: Le Jardinier

The name says it all when it comes to this magical, Michelin-starred NYC restaurant: a light-filled and serene indoor garden with green marble walls and unique custom furniture.

1610 Lexington Ave

Have a restaurant that’s teeming with plants in your neighborhood? Let us and our readers know in the comments!

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The Elephant Ear

AKA alocasia regal shield

1. Lighting

2. Watering

3. Common Problems

4. Maintenance

5. Growing & Repotting

6. Propogating

A stunning plant with large heart-shaped leaves and wavy edges, it’s easy to see where the Elephant Ear got its common name. It is part of the alocasia family, so that is the other name you may hear it called. Here’s everything you need to know to keep this beautiful plant healthy and growing over time.

Elephant Ear Light Requirements

This plant prefers bright indirect light, near a south or north facing window is best. Avoid harsh direct sunlight that may burn your plant’s leaves. Rotate plant monthly for balanced growth

How to water the Elephant Ear

Water your plant about once a week to keep soil evenly moist but never soggy. Mist between waterings to provide humidity.

How fast do Elephant Ears Grow

In prime conditions, the Elephant Ear grows relatively fast and can reach up to two feet in height. Fertilize your Elephant Ear 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Common problems with an Elephant Ear plant

Yellowing edges - light to water ratio imbalance

• Symptom - edges of the large leaves are turning yellow

• Cause - unhappy with its light/water balance

• Remedy - do small weekly tests of giving more or less light OR more or less water. Test one adjustment at a time until yellowing has stopped.

Dark Spots - overwatering

• Symptom - dark brown or black spots on the leaves, surrounded by a yellowish rim

• Cause - the soil has been drenched and caused a fungal disease, typically this is due to overwatering or not enough air circulation around the plant

• Remedy - remove damaged leaf or cut off diseased areas and spray with a fungicide. Optionally, mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda, 1 teaspoon of mineral oil and 2-3 cups of water in a spray bottle, shake well and spray plant evenly.

Droopy leaves - underwatering

• Symptom - leaves drooping and bending backwards

• Cause - underwatering

• Remedy - give your plant a thorough shower, allowing all the roots to have a chance to drink and refresh. Wait until water has drained before returning to decorative pot.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Elephant Ear plant

Take care of your Elephant Ear and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for and growing your Elephant Ear over time.

Pruning

The voluptuous leaves will droop as they age. You can safely trim these off with a clean blade, this will give your plant more energy to grow new leaves!

Trimming

If there is just a small portion of a leaf that was damaged such as the edges, trim off any discoloration or blemishes by following the natural lines and shape of the leaf.

Cleaning

Regularly remove dust to ensure your plant can soak in as much light as possible. Use a damp cloth and gently wipe the leaf clean while supporting the under side with your other hand.

How to grow and repot an Elephant’ Ear plant

• Growing - in prime conditions with the right light/water/temperature balance, Elephant Ear plants are fast growers. After some time, if you don’t see any new growth, consider adjusting one of its elements. During spring and summer, use a diluted fertilizer to give your plant a vitamin boost.

• Repotting - Léon & George’s Elephant Ears plants come in 10” or 12” grow pots and only need to be repotted every few years if you notice the roots outgrowing the pot, or to refresh the soil and give it new nutrients. If you’d like your plant to grow larger, find a new grow pot that is 2” larger than its current pot. If you’re happy with the current size, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Getting your hands dirty with or without a yard - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. At the bottom of the grow pot, and a layer of soil, then place the plant in the center of the pot and cover with new soil. Pat down firmly and water thoroughly. Place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate an Elephant Ear plant

Propagating an Elephant Ear plant is best done through division and during spring or summer.

• Divide the roots - remove the plant from its container and determine which area you will divide to create new plants. Make sure there is at least one bud in each clump of tubers, aka their roots. Carefully untangle the roots and pull apart with your hands or cut through with a clean sharp knife.

• Place in fresh soil - Place the new divisions in fresh soil, press soil firmly and water thoroughly.

• Stabilize - Keep freshly repotted plants in a warm area with bright indirect light, and for Elephant Ears the soil should be kept moist thought not drenched.

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes.

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A Fiddle Leaf Fig with brown spots and leaves falling left and right. Can it be saved?!

So you’re dealing with a dying plant

We’ve all been there. Your plant is dying, it’s possibly not the first time, and you are distressed as to why this keeps happening.

Finding the root cause of why our plants die is crucial to becoming a better plant parent, and one who doesn’t make the same mistake twice! Learn about the factors that can cause an indoor plant to go south, and how to save dying plants in the future.

Common causes for dying plants

Let’s be real. There are dozens of different reasons your plant could be dying, but 99% of them fall into just a few categories. Let’s narrow them down:

• Water. The number one way indoor plants die is by overwatering. While you may love your plant so much and feel inclined to shower it (literally) with love and water, know that most plants need to dry out a bit between waterings in order to thrive. Because overwatering is a quick way to kill your plant, it is always best to err on the side of underwatering, as unlike its opposite, it is pretty difficult to actually kill a plant by simply not watering it. The plant may not look happy, but most will hang on for quite a while with a bit of drought.

• Light. This may seem obvious, but certain plants need a certain amount of light. If your plant isn’t getting the light it needs, it may lead to other problems like over watering (see above!) or a higher risk of getting pests (see below!). Be realistic when choosing the right plants for your space, and if you suspect your plant is unhappy due to its light conditions, move it to another space.

• Pests. Pests like spider mites, mealy bugs, or scale can be a real pain when it comes to indoor plants, especially because we may not notice them until it’s too late. Keep a close eye for the following pests:

  • Mealy bugs. They make white cotton-like masses usually on the underside of leaves.

  • Spider mites. Too small for the naked eye to see, these pests will leave thin silky webs around your plants foliage and stems.

  • Scale. These may not look like they’re moving, but you will see them all the same as brown, hard-shelled insects that suck the nutrients from your plant’s leaves.

• Nutrient deficiency. Though this is the least likely cause of plants dying or starting to die, it can lead to a sad looking plant over time. If your plant has not been repotted in many years, and/or if you do not fertilize regularly, your plant may have a nutrient deficiency. Consider repotting your plant to give it fresh soil (from which it gets lots of nutrients!) or incorporate a regular feeding routine with a gentle fertilizer like Boost Vitaminé.

How to save a dying plant

If you’ve found the cause of your dying plant, there may still be time to fix it.

• Overwatering. Plants that have been severely overwatered may be suffering from root rot, and the only way to save a plant from root rot is repotting. Remove your plant from its pot, remove all the mushy, black roots, and wash the remaining healthy roots thoroughly with water. You may need to repot your plant in a smaller pot if there are not many roots left. Read our full guide on how to treat root rot here. You may also decide to cut off the healthy stems and propagate, using rooting hormone to encourage the growth of a new plant.

• Pests. There are several solutions to saving a dying plant plagued with pests, but they may vary depending on what you’re treating for. Spider mites and their larvae can be washed away with a steady stream of water, and scale can be removed (painstakingly, one by one!) with alcohol and a q-tip. Very serious infestations may require insecticidal soap. As always, prevention is the best way to avoid pests, and we recommend using neem oil to keep the bugs at bay!

Becomming a successful plant parent

Successfully growing your indoor plants is all about keeping staying in tune with your plant and its needs. That means regularly checking on them (beyond simply watering!), learning as you go, and catching any issues or missteps before they become a serious problem. Rest assured that even the greenest of thumbs has killed a plant or two in their lives, and that by no means should you ever give up! Now go forth and keep those plants alive and thriving!

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Let's be real here. The Calathea is a difficult one in terms of care. It needs constant humidity and warmth. Here are the most common issues you'll experience with plants in the maranta and prayer plant families.

What causes Calatheas’ leaves to curl?

Calatheas are humidity-loving, tropical plants. In fact, while this plant is generally easy to care for, it often requires multiple waterings a week (or more in the summer!) to give it the proper moisture that it craves. In most cases, Calatheas’ leaves curl when their soil is excessively dry, though there could be a few other minor reasons that are causing your plant’s leaves to curl.

How to fix curling leaves on a Calathea

Easy! Give it a good drink of water—but from the bottom up. Soak your plant in water by placing it in a deep dish, bowl, sink or bathtub with a few inches of water. You may leave it soaking anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours. After a day or so, you will see how the leaves magically unfurl!

This method of deep watering is called “bottom watering” and Calatheas aren’t the only plants who love it! Learn more about the benefits of bottom watering here.

Water Quality

If you’ve thoroughly soaked your Calathea but it’s still showing signs of curling leaves, consider using filtered water. Tap water often contains salts, chlorine, minerals, and fluoride, which can accumulate in the soil and lead to leaf tip burning, browning, and curling. To address this, try using filtered water or letting your tap water sit in an open container or sink overnight to reduce chlorine content.

Temperature & Humidity

Since the Calathea is a tropical plant, it thrives in high humidity. If your environment lacks humidity, you can increase it by misting the leaves regularly, using a pebble tray, or placing a humidifier nearby.

Temperature is also essential for your Calathea's well-being. Ensure that it is not placed in a drafty area or exposed to heating and cooling vents. Cold temperatures or excessive dryness from constant warm airflow can also cause the leaves to curl.

Other problems with Calatheas

Calatheas can show a few different signs of distress:

Brown Edges

Brown edges appear when the air is too dry for your plant. Add misting to your watering routine or keep it on a bed of rocks and shallow water to add humidity. You can also trim the leaves, either removing the entire leaf at the stem’s base, or trimming the leaf itself, following the natural shape to get the plant and/or its leaves looking sharp again!

Droopy Leaves

Tour plant is getting too much water. Allow the soil to air out or change the soil completely to decrease chances of root rot. 

Ready for more? Read our full guide on Calathea care, including tips for propagation, repotting, and more.

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Calathea Medallion

A stunning prayer plant with a deep color palette of leaves painted by nature.

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Olive Trees can add an elegant, Mediterranean touch to your poolside.

Summertime, and the living’s easy! When it comes to creating a serene and inviting poolside oasis, the right selection of plants can make all the difference. Poolside plants not only add a touch of natural beauty but also provide shade, privacy, and a refreshing ambiance. From poolside landscaping to perfect poolside potted plants, let’s explore which greenery is both visually appealing and well-suited to the unique environment near a swimming pool.

General Considerations for Poolside Plants

Top Poolside Houseplants

Poolside Landscaping Plants

General Considerations for Poolside Plants

Before adding plants to your pool area, there are several important considerations to keep in mind. Planning your poolside landscaping will help ensure that the plants you choose are suitable for the pool environment and enhance the overall aesthetics and functionality of the space. Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Climate and USDA Growing Zones: Determine the climate and USDA growing zone of your region. Different plants thrive in different climates, so it's essential to choose plants that are well-adapted to your specific growing conditions. If you opt for potted plants, you can be a little more flexible here, as bringing them indoors for winter months is always an option.

2. Sun Exposure: Assess the amount of sunlight your pool area receives throughout the day. Some plants require full sun, while others prefer partial shade. Select plants that match the sun exposure in your pool area to ensure their healthy growth.

3. Water Requirements: Consider the proximity of your plants to the pool and the availability of water sources. Plants near the pool may receive splashes of water or increased humidity. Choose plants that can tolerate these conditions and have appropriate water requirements.

4. Pool Safety: Ensure that the plants you select do not have thorns, prickly leaves, or berries that could pose a safety hazard to swimmers. Avoid plants with shallow, invasive roots that can damage pool structures or clog filtration systems.

5. Maintenance: Consider the level of maintenance you are willing to undertake. Some plants require regular pruning, deadheading, or fertilizing, while others are low-maintenance. Select plants that align with your desired level of care.

6. Allergies and Irritants: Be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities that you, your family, or guests may have to certain plants. Avoid plants with strong fragrances or pollen that can cause allergies or respiratory irritations.

7. Privacy and Screening: Determine if you desire additional privacy around your pool area. Select plants that can provide natural screening, such as tall shrubs or bamboo (see more suggestions below!), to create a more secluded and intimate space.

8. Aesthetics: Consider the overall design and style of your pool area. Choose plants that complement the architectural elements, color scheme, and theme of your outdoor space. Consider foliage textures, flower colors, and plant forms that harmonize with the pool surroundings.

9. Pool Maintenance: Take into account the impact of plants on pool maintenance. Avoid plants that drop excessive leaves, flowers, or debris into the pool, as this may increase the frequency of cleaning and maintenance tasks.

10. Safety with Chemicals: Be cautious when using chemicals, such as pool sanitizers and fertilizers, around plants. Some chemicals can harm or even kill certain plant species. Follow recommended guidelines to ensure the safety of both your plants and the pool!

Top Poolside Houseplants

The Bird of Paradise makes an excellent poolside plant.

If you’re not ready for a full-on landscaping project, adding just a few potted plants around your pool is an easy way to greatly enhance the area. This no-mess approach to pool plants is a great option for smaller spaces or individuals who don’t want too much maintenance over time. Plus, the versatility of potted plants allows you to move them around as needed, and even bring them indoors for the winter if needed.

Most houseplants can go adapt to outdoor conditions during the warmer months of the year. Indoor/outdoor patio plants are ideal for poolside plant decor, and here are some of our favorites!

BIRD OF PARADISE

Going for a tropical look? The Bird of Paradise makes a great poolside plants due to their large, glossy leaves and striking appearance. Though they don’t generally bloom indoors, they can in fact show off their vibrant flowers in outdoor settings! This plant can handle direct sunlight, but make sure to slowly acclimate it to very bright areas to avoid scorching the leaves.

Shop the Bird of Paradise →

OLIVE TREE

Olive Trees are unique pool plants as they offer both beauty and functionality. Their silvery-green foliage adds a Mediterranean charm, while their dense canopy provides shade and privacy. Additionally, they naturally repel pests!

Shop the Olive Tree →

FISHTAIL PALM

Fishtail Palms are great poolside plants as they provide dense foliage, offering privacy and shade. Suitable for both shady and sunny areas, the lush, feathery fronds taht resemble a fishtail add a tropical touch to your pool area, creating a relaxing and inviting atmosphere.

Shop the Fishtail Palm →

PONYTAIL PALM

A common plant in Mexican courtyards, Ponytail Palms are excellent poolplants because of their unique, eye-catching appearance with their long, arching leaves cascading down like a ponytail. They are drought-tolerant, low-maintenance, and their architectural form adds a touch of elegance to any poolside landscape.

Shop the Ponytail Palm →

desert cactus

Sun-loving and low-maintenance, the Desert Cactus is an instant statement to any poolside area. In reality a type of succulent, the Desert Cactus requires minimal care to keep it beautiful and thriving over time, and is perfect for pools with a desert aesthetic.

Shop the Desert Cactus →

SNAKE PLANT

Snake Plants are ideal pool plants due to their ability to thrive in both full sun and shade conditions. Their tall, upright leaves bring a modern and architectural element to the pool area while requiring minimal care, making them perfect for busy pool owners.

Shop the Snake Plant →

false aralia

False Aralia plants are excellent pool plants due to their lush, tropical foliage and tolerance of different light conditions. Their wispy, serrated leaves create a dramatic and lush backdrop, adding a touch of luxury and visual interest to your pool area.

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CALANDIVA

Looking for flowering plants for your pool? Calandiva plants are a type of succulent that are perfect for poolside containers or hanging baskets. With their abundant and colorful blooms, they add a splash of vibrant colors to your pool area, creating a cheerful and lively ambiance. They are also easy to care for, making them a popular choice for poolside plantings.

Shop the Calandiva →

sago palm

Sago Palms are excellent poolside plants due to their ability to withstand heat, drought, and even salt spray near pools. Their glossy, dark green fronds add a touch of elegance and provide a tropical vibe, creating a lush and inviting atmosphere.

Shop the Sago Palm →

cast iron plant

For shady poolside areas, Cast Iron Plants are an excellent option due to their exceptional durability and ability to tolerate low light and neglect. Their dark green, leathery leaves provide a lush and tropical feel, making them an ideal choice for adding greenery to shady corners or under tall trees near the pool.

Shop the Cast Iron Plant →

Poolside Landscaping Plants

Ready to start digging? If you’re planning on adding plants in the soil around your pool, consider these top pool landscaping plants that provide multiple benefits such as privacy and shade, and without a doubt enhance the aesthetic of your poolside oasis!

1. Palm Trees: Palm trees are iconic poolside plants, exuding a tropical vibe and adding a touch of luxury to any pool area. The Arecastrum romanzoffianum, commonly known as the Queen Palm, is an excellent choice. Its elegant feather-like fronds provide shade, and its slender trunk adds vertical interest.

   USDA Growing Zones: 9-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

2. Bird of Paradise: The vibrant and exotic Bird of Paradise plant is an attention-grabbing addition to any poolside landscape. With its distinctive orange and blue flowers resembling the shape of a bird in flight, this plant adds a burst of color and drama.

   USDA Growing Zones: 9-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

3. Agave: Agave plants are both hardy and visually striking, making them ideal for poolside environments. Their architectural rosettes of thick, fleshy leaves create a sculptural effect while requiring minimal maintenance. Varieties like Agave americana and Agave parryi are popular choices.

   USDA Growing Zones: Varies by species (generally 8-11)

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

4. Hibiscus: The vibrant and large blooms of the Hibiscus make it a must-have plant for poolside areas. With a wide range of colors available, such as red, pink, orange, and yellow, these tropical beauties will add a burst of color to your poolside paradise.

   USDA Growing Zones: 9-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

5. Lantana: Lantana is a versatile and hardy plant that thrives in warm climates. It offers clusters of tiny, colorful flowers in shades of pink, orange, yellow, and purple. Its long flowering season and ability to attract butterflies make it a delightful addition to any poolside garden.

   USDA Growing Zones: 8-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

6. Yucca: Yucca plants are known for their dramatic sword-like leaves and architectural form. They are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, making them ideal for poolside landscaping. Yucca filamentosa and Yucca rostrata are popular species that can add a touch of desert charm.

   USDA Growing Zones: Varies by species (generally 5-10)

   Sun Requirements: Full sun

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

7. Purple Fountain Grass: For a touch of elegance and movement near your pool, consider planting Purple Fountain Grass. Its tall, burgundy-colored plumes sway gracefully in the breeze, creating a mesmerizing effect. This ornamental grass adds texture and drama to any poolside setting.

   USDA Growing Zones: 9-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

8. Society Garlic: Society Garlic is a versatile plant that offers more than just ornamental value. Its narrow green leaves and pretty lavender flowers produce a garlicky scent that deters pests. This perennial herb is an excellent choice for poolside gardens, and its edible flowers can even be used in cooking.

   USDA Growing Zones: 7-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

9. Canna Lily: Canna Lilies are show-stoppers, known for their large, tropical-looking foliage and vibrant blooms. These plants love water and thrive in the moist conditions near a pool. With a range of flower colors available, including red, orange, yellow, and pink, they are sure to make a bold statement.

   USDA Growing Zones: 7-11

   Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

   Soil Requirements: Moist, well-draining soil

10. Bamboo: Bamboo is an excellent choice for poolside privacy and creating a serene atmosphere. With its fast growth and dense foliage, it can form a natural screen, blocking out unwanted views and providing a tranquil environment. Clumping bamboo species like Bambusa multiplex are recommended to prevent invasive spread.

    USDA Growing Zones: Varies by species (generally 5-11)

    Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade

    Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil

Photo credit: @adriannetulod, @johnfo, @jonathanborba @clarkstudio