A textural and low-maintenance floor plant, the Dracaena Compacta features slender trunks and a beautifully laddered, lush silhouette. Native to Southeast Africa, the Dracaena Compacta is an ideal easy-care statement plant, with a preference for medium, indirect light.

What type of light do Dracaena Compactas need?

This plant prefers medium to bright indirect light, though it can adjust to lower light environments.

How to Water Your Dracaena Compacta

Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil is dry, taking care not to overwater.

Are Dracaena Compactas fast growers?

Generally a plant with a slower growth rate, Dracaena Compactas typically grow about 4” a year and can grow to a height of 6’ over time

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Common problems with the Dracaena Compacta

Browning Leaf Tips - Low Humidity, Dry Environment

• Symptom - Leaf tips exhibiting brown tips

• Cause - Low humidity, dry environment, plant too near AC unit, heat or drafts

• Remedy - Trim brown tips off, mist plant 3-5 times weekly, adjust watering schedule if necessary.

Read more about brown tips on Dracaena Compactas here.

Evidence of Insect Infestation

• Symptom - Whitish bumps, indicating scale, or black dots, indicating mites

• Cause - Insect infestation

• Remedy - Wash all foliage and trunks of Dracaena Compacta with a mixture of gentle soap and water.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Dracaena Compacta

Trimming & reshaping Dracaenas

If your Dracaena Compacta experiences browning at its leaf tips, this can be remedied by trimming leaves with clean, sharp scissors or shears. Follow the natural direction of the leaf as you manicure it.

Cleaning

You can clean your Dracaena Compacta’s foliage and trunks by gently wiping it down with a soft cloth, or a mixture of gentle soap and water.

Repotting Your Dracaena

Dracaena Compactas are moderate to slow growers, and repotted is typically not necessary within the first couple years.

• When to repot - when your Dracaena Compacta’s roots tightly encircle its pot or many stick out, it may be time to repot.

• Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, select a pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than your Dracaena Compacta’s current pot. If you prefer for your plant to stay the same height, its original nursery pot can be re-used, and the soil simply refreshed.

• Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home. 

How to Propagate the Dracaena Compacta

Dracaena Compactas can be propagated from top cuttings. Simply cut a portion from the very top of your plant below a leaf line. Ensure that the portion has at least 4-6 inches of growth. Place the cutting in a container of moist soil, and situate it in a shaded location. When roots form (typically after 4-6 weeks), re-pot into a new container with fresh, moist soil.

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The Dracaena Compacta

A slim and lovely statement floor plant with narrow trunks and laddered emerald foliage, the Dracaena Compacta is a stunning low-maintenance plant for spaces that receive medium, indirect light.

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In our Dear Plant Stylist series, we share styling inquiries received by our in-house stylist with our audience. So read on- you just might find that your plant styling questions are answered below! 

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Dear Plant Stylist, 

I just invested in a few new pieces of furniture (think: Knoll) for my apartment. I’m so excited about them- I’ve waited a long time to arrive at a place in my life where I can realize my dream of authentic Mid-Century design in my home. AND the holidays are coming up, so I’m gearing up to host friends. My plan is Manhattans, canapés, and a totally Mad Men vibe.

Now that I’ve gotten the furniture locked, it’s time for plants. What are your suggestions for greenery that will go with the Mid-Century, Mad Men theme?  

Thanks,

D.E.

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Hi D.,

Do we ever have some options for you! 

First off- congratulations! There’s nothing like the feeling of attaining a goal for your living space that you’ve been working toward for some time. We’re excited to help you get that Mad Men look.

Our Bird of Paradise, a perfect addition to a mid-century living room. Photo credit: Apt2b

The Mid-Century ethos was all about newness, forward motion and innovation. It was the Space Age! So there was a pronounced move from nostalgia and inherited goods to a focus on the brand-new. This meant a surge in popularity for plants that felt unusual and fresh. 

It probably goes without saying, but the Mid-Century aesthetic is kind of our thing, so you’ve definitely come to the right place. And many of the plants that we carry were very popular in the 1950s and 60s, like the Cast Iron Plant, Snake Plant, Monstera Deliciosa and all sorts of Rubber Plants and trees. In the 1960s, Palms were also used to great effect.

The Monstera Deliciosa on the Mad Men set.

Let’s start with a sculptural statement plant that would have been right at home in Bert Cooper’s office, next to his Rothko: the Lady Palm. Lush, textural and suffused with energy, the Lady Palm would be an ideal choice for a spot in your living or sitting room. They’re tolerant of both bright, indirect and medium-low light. 

Now let’s move to the Rubber Tree. Its foliage is high-shine, glossy and stunning. Something about these verdant ficuses just alludes to perpetual newness. They are gorgeous when utilized to flank couches or chairs, as pictured in our inspo photo, next to that caramel leather sofa. 

The Rubber Tree is an excellent choice for a mid-century inspired living room.

The Monstera Deliciosa is another authentically Mid-Century floor plant that brings an energetic, tropical aesthetic to interior spaces. They had a heyday in the 60s, and we think that they’re very Megan Draper: emblematic of the new guard of stylish, creative thinkers that were blazing trails as the liberated 1970s approached.

Snake Plants and Cast Iron Plants are period-appropriate options for large plants that can thrive virtually anywhere and require very little care. Perfect picks if you’re concerned that your frequent Pan-Am flights will leave you with little time for plant maintenance! 

A Parlor Palm makes for the perfect accent in a mid-century inspired living room. Photo credit: @theweekendmixologist

For accent plants, we can’t say enough about the Parlor Palm. Ideal for placement on tabletops and shelves, the Parlor Palm has an undeniable Mid-Century look. With their flexible light requirements, they add a pop of artful texture and a sense of fun to even commonly overlooked spaces, like bathrooms. 

Enjoy curating your new plant collection, D! It’s been more than a treat to return to the timeless inspiration of Mad Men with you.

Monstera Deliciosa

Parlor Palm

Rubber Tree

Lady Palm

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Image credit: Dragon Trees, by Leon & George

“I am the Lorax. I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees for the trees have no tongues.”

— Dr. Seuss, The Lorax

What comes to your mind when you think about Dr. Suess? Maybe it’s the Grinch, or his adorable dog Max? (A good boy, if ever there was one.) Or maybe you think about Pop getting hopped on, or of star-bellied sneetches standing in a line. But if you’re here on La Résidence, we have a feeling you probably remember Dr. Seuss’s exceptional plants!

Truffula trees, the pom-pom flowers from Horton Hears a Who!, the green-and-yellow striped fields of Oh, The Places You’ll Go!— Dr. Seuss was a veritable horticulturist of a whole world of wild greenery! 

We’re excited to report that Dr. Seuss-inspired plants really do exist, and you can have them all! So read on, because we are sharing our official picks for certifiably Seussical plants. 

Illustration credit: Dr. Seuss, The Lorax

The Dracaena Compacta: Your Very Own Truffula Tree

Tufted and textural, the Dracaena Compacta’s laddered canopy of foliage is undeniably Truffula! So if, like The Lorax, you’d like to speak for the trees and revel in nature’s gifts, the Dracaena Compacta is a perfect reminder that green is good. 

Illustration credit: Dr. Seuss, How the Grinch Stole Christmas

The Dracaena Lisa: The Friendly Grinch 

Ah, the Dracaena Lisa. Tall and deeply green with profuse, floppy foliage. The Lisa is a dead ringer for the Grinch. But luckily for plant lovers like us, the Lisa has a decidedly more relaxed disposition!

Illustration credit: Dr. Seuss, The Cat in the Hat

The King of Hearts Anthurium: The Rowdy, Red Cat in the Hat

Adorned with bright, crimson red blossoms, the King of Hearts Anthurium is reminiscent of The Cat in the Hat’s trademark red bow. But unlike the Cat, it won’t turn your house upside down! All the quirky style, and none of the clean-up. Who could ask for more?

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Striking the perfect watering balance Fiddle Leaf Figs is a key factor in ensuring the health and beauty of this popular indoor plant, and funnily enough, two of the most common problems Fiddle owners face are either overwatering or underwatering their plant. What’s more, telling which is which is a task in and of itself!

Because Fiddle Leaf Figs are prone to leaf drop and browning, it may seem simple to jump to conclusions about your plant. But keep in mind that the amount you water your plant is also tied to the conditions it lives in—what type of light, temperature and humidity levels the plant experiences in its home. Underwatering, for example, may be more common in homes that are very very bright and also very warm, as the plant dries out faster than you water it. Being aware of your plant’s light situation is the first step in ensuring a proper watering cadence.

But even if you think you’re watering your Fiddle properly, it might not always be clear what’s going on. In a nutshell, overwatering leads to root rot, a fungus in the roots that can eventually damage leaves and even kill your plant. Underwatering, however, can also lead to leaf damage and potential demise. At first glance, the brown spots, dropping leaves, and curled edges can be a symptom of either one, but here are a few subtle differences between an overwatered and underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig.

Symptoms of a dry Fiddle Leaf Fig

Determining if your Fiddle is underwatered or overwatered requires a bit of intuition, but chronically dry Fiddles do show a few kew differences from overwatered ones, and one is curled leaves.

Another way to tell your plant is underwatered is noticing where the brown spots lie. Oftentimes, brown spots on a dry Fiddle will show up on the edge of the leaf, versus in the middle near the “veins”. The brown spots will also often appear all over the plant, from top to bottom, whereas root rot usually starts to affect only the bottom leaves first.

Finally, and probably most importantly, the leaves of your dry fiddle leaf fig may look otherwise healthy, whereas the leaves of a plant with root rot will begin to look sickly, with either yellow, droopy, or “spotted” leaves. Furthermore, while both cases will show leaf drop, usually overwatered Fiddles drop their bottom leaves first, whereas a dry Fiddle will drop leaves from anywhere on the plant.

Symptoms of an overwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig

A telltale sign of too much water and/or root rot in Fiddle Leaf Figs is brown spots near the center of the leaves, as well as around the edges. Multiple yellow almost always means too much water.

Overwatered Fiddles will also show a general browning, with tiny dark spots or shady areas, that can spread quickly from one leaf to another over the course of a week.

As mentioned above, you may also notice that your plant drops its bottom leaves first. That could be a sign of root rot, as plants tend to protect their new growth and shed the older leaves first.

If you’re still not sure, try using a moisture meter to check the moisture levels in your plant’s roots.

What about erratic watering?

To make things even more confusing, sometimes plants will show signs of both underwatering and overwatering. You aren’t going mad! Your plant may experience both, and that could be a result of erratic watering.

Fiddle Leaf Figs thrive on routine, so if necessary, set reminders to water your plant more or less at the same time every week (or two!)—whatever makes the most sense to water your plant consistently to ensure that the roots dry out just enough between waterings.

Our ultimate watering guide for Fiddle Leaf Figs has more information on determining the best watering situation for your plant. Léon & George customers also have 24/7 access to our digital plant doctors, should you need personalized assistance. Good luck!

This post was adapted from the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource by expert Claire Akin. Head to their website to learn more about caring for the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

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Mid-century modern design rose to popularity during the 1930s and 40s but never quite went out of style. Today the term mid-century modern (MCM, for short) is more ubiquitous than ever, and pairs well with both vintage and modern homes alike. Defined by organic shapes, minimal decor, and a focus on functionality, this style of interior design is undeniably timeless and relatively simple to emulate at home.

Looking to incorporate some mid century furniture and style into your home? Read on for basic principles to attain this look!

Basic characteristics of mid-century modern interior design

1. Organic and geometric shapes

Mid-century modern style focuses on clean lines with a mix of both organic and geometric shapes. Simplicity rules, and some of the most basic mid-century modern furntiure pieces like coffee tables and chairs are often the most beautiful. Mid-century modern furniture is generally easy to spot, but when looking for new pieces, go for simple designs with minimal elaboration.

2. Function over form

While mid century modern furniture pieces are undeniably beautiful in their simplicity, this style is all about functionality. Generally minimal in looks, no piece is without its purpose. This attention to functionality also explains why vintage pieces from this era are still circulating today—they were made to last!

Mid-Century Modern Ceramics

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3. Minimal ornamentation

Similar to Scandinavian design, mid-century modern style is one without clutter or superfluous ornamentation. Statement pieces like large sculptures or plants are more common, whereas small trinkets or collections are generally out of sight. Mid-century modern living rooms focus on the simple basics, for example, with just a few pieces to complete the look. In line with functionality, avoid clutter or items that you simply don’t use or admire.

4. Contradicting materials and textures

Though wood and wood veneer are typical elements of mid-century modern style, designers of the time did a fair amount of experimentation with other materials that were new to the era like plastic, formica, and acrylic. As such, don’t be afraid to mix and match organic and synthetic materials to create a mid-century modern look.

Mid-century modern is all about simple shapes, functional elements, and minimal ornamentation, and indoor plants add a bit of life to the look! Pictured from left to right are the Bird’s Nest Fern, Bird of Paradise, and Red Congo.

5. Neutral (and bold!) colors

Neutrals never go out of style, and such is the case in this type of interior design. Traditionally, the midcentury palette ranged from bright hues in the 1950s to warmer earthy tones in the 1960s, leaving a lot of room for flexibility. For a modern touch, use neutral tones with occasional splashes of color, like a bright accent chair.

6. Bringing nature indoors

Big, flat-paneled windows and homes integrated with their surroundings are common of mid-century modern design. Bringing natural elements indoors, from the raw materials of the pieces to living houseplants as decor, is a great way to emulate this timeless look.

Have a style crush yet? Shop our mid-century modern planters (or some of the best mid-century modern plants!) to start your collection today!

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Why Are The Tips of My Dracaena Compacta’s Leaves Browning and Dry?

The Dracaena Compacta or JC (Janet Craig) Compacta is an elegant floor plant with an engaging, laddered silhouette and charming pom-poms of foliage. Its slender vertical trunks make it ideal for placement in narrow spaces and corners, and its easy-going disposition in regard to lighting and water means that a Dracaena Compacta is often the perfect choice when no other plant will quite do the trick. They’re gorgeous, textural and easy to care for, and issues with this plant are rare. But when a challenge appears, it is usually in the form of browning leaf tips. Never fear! There’s a solution. Read on, and you should have no issue getting your Dracaena Compacta’s leaf tips back on track and vibrantly green.

Insufficient Humidity

Like so many indoor plant varieties, the Dracaena Compacta is native to tropical climates that boast naturally high humidity levels. This is often a far cry from the spaces Compactas end up in, which may contain running ACs, heaters or vents, or dry drafts from windows and doors. So if your plant begins to exhibit crispy, brown leaf tips, chances are high that it is due to low humidity levels in your space. Combat the dryness by misting your plant regularly (up to 3-5 times a week). If your Dracaena Compacta is situated within a few feet of an appliance that emits dry air, you will want to consider moving it as well.

Trim It Up

Once you’ve begun a consistent misting routine and ensured that your Dracaena Compacta is out of the path of direct gusts of dry air from appliances, windows and doors, give it a trim. Carefully cut the brown edges and tips off of your plant’s foliage with clean, sharp scissors or shears, by snipping the leaf in the direction of its natural growth. Once your plant’s foliage has been trimmed, give it a thorough misting, and it will look brand-new. No more brown!

drying bottom leaves

A common occurrence and not related to browning tips, the lower foliage of each of the Dracaena Compacta’s trunks will start to dry out once it is time for the frond to be pruned. This is part of its natural cycle and allows the plant to maintain energy for new growth at the top.

More Support

If you follow the guidelines above and your Dracaena Compacta continues to experience newly browning leaf tips, contact the Plant Doctor service for an assessment and custom guidance. You can do so by logging into your Léon & George account, clicking “Contact Plant Doctor”, and attaching images of both the Dracaena Compacta as a whole and close-ups of its problem areas. Our Plant Doctor team will reach out to you with their thoughts and instructions for care within 2-3 business days.

Read our full Dracaena Compacta care guide here.

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Dracaena Compacta

Textural and low-maintenance, the Dracaena Compacta is a gorgeous statement floor plant with a slender, laddered silhouette, making it ideal for narrow spaces and corner areas.

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Dracaenas are a gorgeous example of nature’s love of texture. And with their unique foliage and vertical height, plants like the Dragon Tree, Dracaena Lisa, and Dracaena Compacta are a perfect option for tricky areas like corners and hallways. Their trunks are long and slim, which is a fantastic aesthetic feature, but can also come with a minor caveat: a slight lean. There’s nothing more standard in nature than a curved or leaning plant, so they can certainly be allowed to grow naturally in whatever direction they choose. But if the lean of your Dracaena’s drunk bothers, you can simply stake it! 

The Benefits Of Staking Your Dracaena

The benefits of staking your Dracaena are largely aesthetic. Plants enjoy growing at their own rate in whatever direction they prefer (generally toward the light!) but if a leaning trunk bothers your style sensibility, your plant will not be harmed by staking.

Staking Your Dracaena

To stake your Dracaena, the best option for a stake will be either a bamboo pole or a slender green-toned garden stake, which are typically plastic or coated metal. Both are widely available at nurseries and home improvement stores.

Utilize Support Ties

You don’t need a particular variety of support ties for staking your Dracaena. Plant tape, twine, or strips of fabric can all be used. Just ensure that when you tie the trunk of your plant to the stakes, you do not tie them tightly enough to damage the trunks. Think efficiently anchored, but not strangled. 

You can add support ties about 1-2 inches up from the point where your plant’s trunk meets the soil. Repeat at intervals of several inches (about every six to twelve inches, depending on the size of your plant).

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Dragon Tree

A gorgeous statement plant ideal for narrow spaces, the Dragon Tree has lush, spiky foliage and beautifully tonal trunks. Low-maintenance and tolerant of varied lighting conditions.

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The beautiful Bird’s Nest Fern is far from your typical fern variety. Named for the way its foliage grows from its nest-like center, Bird’s Nest Ferns are a hardy and lush indoor fern variety with thick, verdant leaves that unfurl luxuriously. But although its care routine is very simple in comparison to most ferns, it does require a specific watering regimen. Diverting from this is the most common cause of curling leaves in Bird’s Nest Ferns. Don’t fret! Just read on to learn how to correct your Bird’s Nest Fern’s curling leaves.

Overwatering

Like most ferns, Bird’s Nest Ferns prefer for their soil to be consistently moist, but not drenched. If you suspect that you’ve provided your fern with too much water, you’ll need to allow its soil to dry out: not entirely, but to reach an even and consistent level of moisture, before watering again.

Incorrect Watering

It is paramount that you never water the Bird’s Nest Fern’s center. Always water around the outermost edges of your Bird’s Nest Fern, which will allow the water to be pulled in by the plant in all the right places. Watering directly in the center of the “nest” can result in a bogged-down, waterlogged fern which may ultimately require repotting to rectify.

Repot When Needed

If your Bird’s Nest Fern has become severely waterlogged, it is at risk of root rot, which can ultimately result in the plant losing all viability. Don’t be afraid to repot in instances like these. Simply plan on getting a little dirty. Move outside or spread newspaper on the floor, then remove the fern from its plastic nursery pot and shake off as much of the old soil as you can, so that you can see the roots. Roots that are severely rotted can be trimmed off with clean, sharp scissors. Then, place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil (avoid replacing more than 1/3 of the overall soil at one time) and pat the soil down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly until moist, not drenched, and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust, but it should mitigate the issue of further root rot developing.

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Bird’s Nest Fern

Verdant, resilient and deeply hued, this indoor fern variety boasts lush foliage, which grows in wavy fronds from the plant’s center, resembling a bird’s nest. The Bird’s Nest Fern prefers medium to bright light, consistent moisture and steady humidity.

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Watering can prove challenging to even the proudest houseplant owners, especially when it comes to members of the ficus family. The Fiddle Leaf Fig (ficus lyrata) is especially notorious for frustrating its owners with its picky watering needs. First-time owners of these plants are prone to overwatering, which can lead to health issues such as root rot. Those fearful of overwatering thus underwater their Fiddle Leaf Figs. So how to find a happy balance when watering? Read on to find out.

How to Tell How Much Water Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Really Needs

It can be hard for some to diagnose whether their Fiddle Leaf Fig has been getting over or under-watered. But your plant will always tell you what it needs through its leaves and soil. Luckily, reading these signs gets easier with time. Some simple questions to ask yourself to know if you are overwatering are:

1. Am I watering more than once a week? Watering once a week at most is what your Fiddle Leaf Fig needs. Depending on the conditions of the environment (light, humidity, temperature), it could be even less!

2. Do I feel my plant’s soil before watering? You should always stick your finger an inch or two into your plant’s soil to feel how damp it is. If the soil is wet to the touch from the last time you watered, wait until it dries out more. If you aren’t checking in before watering, it can be easy to overdo it.

3. Do my plant’s leaves have dark spots or edges? Brown spots around the edges or center of leaves is a symptom of overwatering and root rot.

4. Is there a musty odor coming from my plant? Make sure that your plant is not sitting in a pool of water in its decorative container. Besides leading to fungal infections, this can also attract insects.

5. Does my plant’s pot have a drainage hole? Ideally, your plant should be in its plastic nursery pot inside of its decorative container. This allows for the best drainage and lets you maneuver your plant more easily. If you want your plant to just be in a decorative container make sure that it has a drainage hole.

For all the reasons listed above, owners of this plant can become leery of overwatering. But being too withholding with water can lead to its own batch of health issues for the Fiddle Leaf Fig. Here are some questions to ask yourself if you suspect you’ve been under-watering your plant:

1. Are the newer leaves smaller than the older leaves? If the newest leaves on your Fiddle Leaf Fig are much smaller than older ones your plant is likely struggling to get what it needs. Smaller leaves can point to a lack of water, nutrients, or light.

2. Is your plant rapidly dropping leaves? This can be caused by low humidity or thirst. Make sure that your plant isn’t in front of a vent where it is getting blasted with dry air.

3. Is the top inch of its soil dry to the touch? While you should let your Fiddle Leaf Fig dry out a bit between waterings you do not want to let your plant become bone dry. Allow your plant to dry out for brief periods before watering.

4. Are the edges of leaves brown and crumpled? These brown patches will start at the edges of leaves and work their way inwards. If they feel dry then your plant is probably thirsty.

5. Are the leaves curling inwards? This is a sign of a severely underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig. You can give your plant a shower but it will probably need some time to fully recover.

If asking yourself these questions did not make it any more clear whether you are over or under-watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig, it’s usually safe to assume that you are overwatering. You are not alone! Concerned plant parents tend to overwater, and most indoor plant failures are a result of loving the plant a little too much when it comes to water! Try to check in with your plant more regularly and take time to inspect its leaves. Your plant will communicate to you what it needs through them. Once you have learned to properly read the signs, taking care of it will feel far easier.

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So How Often Should You Water Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant?

A general rule of thumb is that Fiddle Leaf Figs do not need to be watered more than once a week. This can of course depend on the time of year, the amount of sunlight your plant receives, and the temperature and humidity levels of your home. But picking a day of the week to water on can take some of the guesswork out of when you need to water next. If on your designated day your plant still feels moist to the touch simply check back in with it later. Over time you may be able to determine exactly how many days your unique Fiddle Leaf Fig needs between waterings!

But remember — this strategy will only work if your plant has proper drainage. If your plant is in a pot without a drainage hole or has compacted soil you will struggle to improve its condition. If your plant’s soil is still wet to the touch a week after you watered it likely needs better drainage. If you’re unsure how to give your plant the drainage it needs try reading our guide on how to create the perfect drainage for Fiddle Leaf Figs.

The thing that your plants want most from you is consistency— don’t stress and change too many things at once. Simply make small changes, like moving your plant to a new window or adjusting your watering routine, and observe how your plant responds. Once you’ve found a rhythm, also try to give your plant the same amount of water every week.

How Much Water Do Fiddle Leaf Figs Need?

The amount of water your Fiddle Leaf Fig needs each week is unique and depends on the conditions of your home.

A simple rule that many owners like to follow is to give a cup per two feet. So if your plant is two feet tall from the base of the soil to the tallest leaf then you would give it one cup of water a week. This scales upwards, two cups if it is four feet, and so on. This rule can be helpful if you are just figuring things out but it doesn’t take the unique needs of your plant into account. So if you are following carefully observe how your plant responds. Is it drying out quickly? It needs more water. Is it still wet after a week? Scale back the water. Most importantly, always make sure that your plant is not sitting in water!

How Should You Fertilize A Fiddle Leaf Fig?

The growing season for most plants is the spring and summer. This is when your Fiddle Leaf Fig will be dedicating most of its resources to developing new branches and leaves. You will want to supplement your plant’s soil with fertilizer during this time to make sure that it is getting all of the nutrients that it needs. This is quite easy and can be done when you water. During the growing season simply dilute some liquid fertilizer into water and water your plant like usual. When your plant is winding down for a restful winter in the fall you should only fertilize every other time you water. You don’t want to fertilize in winter because your plant is dormant and not growing.

It’s best to use a liquid house plant fertilizer like our Boost Vitaminé, formulated to provide optimal nutrition for your plant.

This post was adapted from the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource by expert Claire Akin. Head to their website to learn more about caring for the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

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The Bird’s Nest Fern is the champion of the indoor ferns. Both low-maintenance and vibrant, its unique foliage sets it apart, and it’s far and away the easiest indoor ornamental fern to care for. Named for the way its quill-like leaves grow from a nest-like center, the Bird’s Nest Fern is a lush choice for tabletops and they make gorgeous centerpieces. But although it is low-maintenance, it is somewhat sensitive to light, which can result in pale and/or yellowing leaves. Not to worry! Read on to learn our simple steps on how to correct leaf discoloration and keep your Bird’s Nest Fern healthy and happy.

Pale Leaves: Too Much Light

Bird’s Nest Ferns have a preference for medium, indirect light. Too much bright light is simply too different from the light that they receive in their native, tropical environments, which are both moist and filtered by the canopies of other plants inhabiting the same biome. If your Bird’s Nest Fern is in a spot where it receives direct natural light, it will need to be moved to a space that receives diffuse, medium light. Similarly, if it is in a spot that receives bright light from artificial appliances, it will likely need to be moved to a space with light that is more gentle and less direct.

Yellow Leaves: Overwatering

Yellow leaves are one of Mother Nature’s most common signs of overwatering. This symptom can be seen consistently across many plant families, and the Bird’s Nest Fern is no exception. If its leaves are yellow, sagging, and have the appearance of holding a lot of moisture within them, the fern is likely overwatered. Remember that your Bird’s Nest Fern needs its soil to be kept consistently moist, not drenched. And never water directly within the center of the plant’s nest- always water along the outer edges of the plant’s soil. A watering can with a narrow spout can assist you with this.

If you’re concerned that your fern has been severely overwatered, lift it out of its ceramic pot (still within its plastic nursery pot) and check the ceramic for any signs of standing water. If water has pooled within it, dump it out. Allow the plant’s soil to dry to a consistently moist state before returning the fern to its ceramic pot, then resume your watering schedule: always aiming for consistent moisture, not soaking.

Further Support

If you follow the steps above and the condition of your Bird’s Nest Fern’s does not improve, don’t hesitate to reach out to our Plant Doctor Service. Just log into your Leon and George account and select “Contact Plant Doctor” from the menu. Then, upload photos of your plant as a whole, as well as close-ups of any areas exhibiting a pale or yellow tone, and provide details on the water your fern receives (both how much, and how often) as well as a description of its lighting environment. The Plant Doctor team will get back to you within 1-2 business days with an assessment, and guidance on how to get your fern back on track.

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Bird’s Nest Fern

A resilient, low-maintenance and beautifully full indoor fern, the Bird’s Nest Fern’s claim to fame is its luscious, quill-like foliage, which grows in ample fronds from the plant’s center, resembling a bird’s nest. Bird’s Nest Ferns require medium light, consistent moisture and steady humidity. Ideal for tabletops and renowned for their use as eye-catching centerpieces.

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Turns out, you really can have it all. And our new Dracaena collection checks every box: a hand-picked flight of vibrantly sculptural statement plants, that just happen to be easy-care with air purifying powers to boot. 

So join us as we let the genie out of the bottle, because each of these Dracaena varieties was hand-picked to adorn your home with lush, low-maintenance style! 

Dracaena Compacta

Dracaena Lisa

Dragon Tree

Easy Care Dracaenas, At Your Service

One of the best traits of Dracaena varieties is that they are truly easy-care, because they are adaptable to varied levels of light and don’t require a study influx of bright rays. 

This makes them the perfect option for spaces that don’t receive much natural light and areas that can otherwise be difficult to adorn with living greenery, like hallways and corners. 

This family of plants also doesn’t require profuse watering. They simply need to be watered when their topsoil (the top two inches of soil below the decorative reindeer moss in your pot) are dry to the touch. It’s that simple! Water when topsoil is dry, and hold off when it is moist. This easy equation will keep your Dracaena healthy and flourishing for years to come. 

The Dracaena Air-Purifying Effect

Air purifying properties in living greenery are truly a gift from nature, and the Dracaena has this quality in spades. Not only do plants convert carbon dioxide (ew) into fresh air (ah!) through the act of photosynthesis, but indoor Dracaenas like the Dracaena Marginata also have the power to remove volatile compounds (even potentially harmful ones linked to cancer) from the air.

Dracaena Compacta

Dragon Tree

Dracaena Lisa

Airborne pollutants are no fun, and if you typically associate them with outdoor spaces and cities, you’re not alone. But benzene and formaldehyde are often found in both occupational and non-occupational indoor spaces-- even at home.

Add to that the fact that indoor plants calm the sympathetic nervous system, have a positive effect on mood and energy levels, and soothe stress, and we think you’ll agree that any space you’re in needs a Dracaena! 

Dracaena Varieties: An Abundance Of Wildly Stylish Foliage

Indoor living greenery is having a heyday-- and we are here for it! But you may feel a bit fatigued if you notice what seem to be the same plant varieties in every stylish space you enter. We’re firm proponents of the idea that all living plants make great adornments and function as fantastic decor. But if unique, frisky foliage is what you’re looking for, the Dracaena is for you. Consider the unique foliage of these Dracaena varieties:

• Dracaena Marginata aka Dragon Tree - Long, slender striped leaves with a striking and energetic appearance

• Dracaena Compacta aka Dracaena Janet Craig - Tightly knit tufts of waxy, emerald green leaves

• Dracaena Lisa aka Dracaena Fragrans - Shiny lush leaves that grow to towering heights

Textural, layered, lush and deeply hued, the Dracaena plays well with any style of interior decor, from energizing a neutral palette and adding intrigue to a minimalist space, to incorporating a deeply natural, spirited jungle aesthetic to detail-oriented spaces. 

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Easy Care Plants, Delivered

Beautifully potted plants, plus lifetime plant care support. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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When it comes to owning a Fiddle Leaf Fig, the best thing that you can do for your plant is place it in the optimal spot in your home (with watering properly a close second!). Fiddle Leaf Figs are incredibly picky about their placement, and need the perfect balance of bright sunlight without direct exposure to harsh rays. Too much sun and your plant will burn, but too little sun and you will have a plant that seems to barely grow, drops its leaves, and is susceptible to all sorts of illnesses. Read on if you want to place your Fiddle Leaf Fig in the best light!

Where to place your Fiddle Leaf Fig

Whenever you add a new plant to your collection try to consider the natural conditions in which they thrive. Fiddle Leaf Figs naturally grow under the bright African sun, although they are actually banyan trees in the wild. This means that they grow high up in the branches of other trees and are protected from the sun’s direct rays. As such, bright, filtered light is what is best for these plants.

If you have a large window that receives lots of light and has a sheer curtain, that is perhaps the most ideal setup. You want to find a happy balance between lots of light without it being too direct.

In certain temperate areas, such as parts of southern California, you can actually keep Fiddle Leaf Figs outside in full sun. Outside in domestic conditions these plants will typically only grow to 25 feet tall. If you’re going to keep one outside try to place it somewhere where it isn’t in the shadow of larger plants and where it cannot cast a shadow on smaller plants. Remember that if your plant normally lives indoors, you will want to slowly acclimate it to direct sun if you plan on moving it outdoors.

Natural Plant Food

Nourish your plants with this specially-formulated organic liquid plant food. Our Boost Vitaminé is made with potent nutrients from nature to help your plants grow and thrive all year long.

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Assessing Light for Fiddle Leaf Figs

While it can be tempting to place your Fiddle Leaf Fig wherever it best complements your decor, you (and your Fiddle!) will be better off in the long run if you consider first its light needs. It should be at least a couple feet away from any windows, although near a window is fine. You just want to avoid it getting too much direct sun. If you have a gauzy curtain that can filter the sun’s light for you Fiddle Leaf Fig that’s even better. Ideally, the window should be facing either south or east. You just don’t want to put a Fiddle Leaf Fig near a north-facing window as it likely won’t get enough light.

If you don’t know which direction the windows in your home face a simple way to find out is to use a compass app on your phone. Having this knowledge will make you an even better plant owner.

Photo credit : The Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource Center

Which Direction Should Your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s Window Face?

Check to see which direction your window faces to be sure it’s a good match for your Fiddle. This guide should be helpful for those who live in North America:

North-facing windows receive the least amount of sunlight, so you don’t want to put your Fiddle Leaf Fig in front of one if you can help it. However, if you live in a southern temperate region such windows might receive enough light. The farther north of the equator you are the less light such windows receive.

East-facing windows receive a good amount of early morning sun, but they catch little of the sun’s afternoon light. This is a problem because your Fiddle Leaf fig needs at least 6 hours of cumulative sunlight a day. Consider the size of your window carefully and observe whether it receives any midday light.

West-facing windows receive the most midday light. This is when the sun’s rays are most intense. So you need to be careful is you are going to put your Fiddle Leaf Fig in front of one, its leaves could get scorched. Keep your plant at least a couple of feet away from the window to protect it.

South-facing windows receive the brightest sunlight for the longest period of time. This makes them ideal for Fiddle Leaf Figs. Just make sure you don’t place your plant directly by the window or you could risk burning its leaves.

Fiddle Leaf Figs are known for being finicky but they are able to adapt to less than ideal lighting. If you don’t have the best lighting for your plant just focus on making the rest of their care as good as possible. Be careful not to overwater and fertilize with fiddle leaf fig plant food. And don’t forget to rotate your Fiddle Leaf Fig when you water! You plant craves sunlight and will lean towards its light source over time. Leaves without regular exposure to sunlight will also be less healthy.

This post was adapted from the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource by expert Claire Akin. Head to their website to learn more about caring for the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

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