A Zanzibar Gem like the one pictured above can survive with next to no light, but some artificial light will definitely help!

All plants need at least some light to survive, but does it need to be natural light? For those of us with limited sunlight in our homes, owning our favorite indoor plants can be tough. But luckily, having our favorite sun-loving plants in low light places is in fact possible, and that’s where artificial light comes into play.

Growing indoor plants with artificial light

First things first, not all artificial light is created equal. The typical lightbulbs in your home, for example, generally do not contribute much in the way of photosynthesis, especially if they aren’t on for 12+ hours a day. Low-light plants will grow just fine in areas with nothing more than overhead lights or lamps, but others will quickly deteriorate without proper grow lights.

What makes a good grow light?

So what is a proper grow light? The world of grow lights can seem technical and confusing, but it doesn’t have to be! When using artificial light for indoor plants, the goal is to simulate the light of the sun. You may see the words “full spectrum”, “cool light”, and “warm light”, and effective grow lights are simply full spectrum bulbs: bulbs that generate all useful wavelengths for plants with a mixture of cool (blue) and warm (red) light. While you can get extra specific about the exact needs of your plant, generally speaking a balanced ratio of cool and warm is just fine for indoor houseplants.

There are many different types of bulbs you can use to supplement your plant’s light intake and growth, but most would agree that LEDs are not only highly effective but also by far more efficient than their counterparts like incandescent, fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (HID) lights.

And as a tip: you don’t necessarily need an entire fixture to get the job done. The lamps in your home, if positioned correctly, will work just fine with the right bulbs.

Top grow lights for indoor plants

There are hundreds if options when it comes to great grow lights, but not all of them are attractive or take your home’s decor into account. Truth be told, grow lights up until recently were mostly manufactured for commercial purposes and not necessarily residential homes or offices.

Our favorite grow lights are ones that complement your style rather than detracting from it, such as Soltech Solutions for sleek, modern looks, or Modern Sprout for colorful and creative lights.

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Just in time for one last summer hurrah, LA based architecture studio Laney LA has drawn back the curtains to their latest project, an oceanic Manhattan Beach residence that seamlessly invites the outdoors in. The exquisite property “reveals itself slowly”, combining layers of indoor and outdoor spaces to create a soothing feeling of being surrounded by nature.

To tie the space together, we paired the minimalist aesthetics with living greenery that would contrast and in turn complement the geometric interior floor plan. Soft, rounded foliage balances straight lines and corners, accentuating the calming aura of each individual space.

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Schefflera Tree

Parlor Palm

Ficus Audrey

Rubber Plant

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Rubber Tree

Cascading Pothos

Ficus Audrey

Bird of Paradise

Architecture & design by Laney LA.
@laneylainc

Photography by Jess Isaac
@jess_isaac

Share the bounty (and the legendary good luck!) of your Snake Plant by propagating it for friends! 

Snake Plant propagation couldn’t be easier, and there are three easy ways to approach the task. These hardy, low-maintenance houseplants love to grow, so check out the tips below and discover the world of plant propagation. It’s not nearly as intimidating as it sounds, and it allows you to give the gift of green to friends for free!

Snake Plant Propagation

1. Propagating Cut Leaves in Water

Talk about simplicity: this method is all about ease. For this method, you’ll need tissue, a vessel of hold water, and your cut Snake Plant blade.

Cut healthy leaves from your Snake Plant with clean, sharp shears or scissors and place them in a vessel with a tissue at the bottom. Add just enough water to cover that tissue, and place the container in an area that receives indirect light. 

Replace the water every few days, and you will soon be able to see that the cutting is growing a network of brand-new roots. When the roots appear hardy and strong, plant the new Snake Plant in sandy soil or peat moss, and follow our Snake Plant care instructions here.

2. Propagate Snake Plant Cuttings Directly in Soil

This method is similar to the previous, but it eliminates a step to make propagating even easier! 

After cutting your leaf with clean, sharp shears or scissors, allow it to rest in the air for a day, giving the cut edge time to develop a callous/hardened area. Then, plant the cutting in a pot of lightly moistened sandy soil or peat moss. Within a few weeks, it will have rooted all on its own. 

Keep in mind with this method you will not be able to see the roots forming, which is often part of the magic of propagation. Choose whichever method suits you best!

3. Propagating Snake Plant by Division

Snake Plants grow from rhizomes— hardy, bulbous root systems that resemble new potatoes. By removing your Snake Plant from its pot and shaking off some of its soil, you can separate individual blades of your Snake Plant while maintaining their connection to their rhizomes. It’s best practice to keep at least three rhizomes and one health blade together when you re-pot into a new container of sandy soil or peat moss. 

And that’s that! We told you it was simple, and with a resilient plant like the Snake Plant, your options for propagation are virtually endless. Share the love of indoor greenery and happy propagating! Oh, and don’t forget to share your results by tagging us @leonandgeorge on Instagram!

Looking to get your hands dirty with other plants? Check out our full post on plant propagation!

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Snake Plant

A structural indoor succulent known for its air-purifying qualities and incredibly hardy nature.

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A Peace Lily before and after a shower.

Just like us, our indoor plants love a good shower. That’s right! Excess salts + fertilizer residue can build up in your plant's pots over time. This can contribute to wilting, dropping leaves, brown leaf tips, and reduced growth, so showering your houseplants once a season helps to flush out and refresh their soil.

How to properly give your plant a shower:

1. Remove your plant from its decorative pot so it has proper drainage through its nursery pot

2. Put the decorative moss aside, trim any dead, diseased, or discolored leaves

3. Shower your plant thoroughly in your sink or bathtub with room temperature water

4. Allow plants to fully drain before returning them to their pots, usually a few hours or overnight. Make sure their roots are not sitting in a pool of water.

This deep cleaning will promote future growth and leave your plants feeling refreshed. And since spring has sprung, now is the perfect time to shower your plants with care!

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Chinese Money Plant

AKA pilea peperomiodes

The peculiar Pilea Peperomiodes, also known as the Chinese Money Plant or the Friendship Plant, has one of the most unique stories of the houseplant world. Originally hailing from the Himalyan mountains, this plant was brought to Europe by a Swedish missionary, and, being incredibly simple to propagate, was multiplied and passed around from friend to friend. As such, for many years it was very difficult to actually purchase, given that horticulturists did not typically grow it. Luckily that’s no longer the case, and these plants are not only relatively easy to find but also incredibly easy to care for. With just a little light, water, and love, you too can grow— and pass on— the lovely Pilea Peperomiodes!

Light requirements for the Pilea

Pileas are not too picky when it comes to light. They prefer bright indirect light, though they can adjust to medium levels of light and also stand a few hours of direct sunlight.

How to water your Pilea

Let your Pilea dry out between waterings, and water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week. Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months.

Are Pileas fast growers?

The Pilea can be a pretty fast grower, though its leaves generally remain quite small. In prime conditions, the Pilea can grow over three feet tall. Fertilize your Pilea 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

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Common problems with Pileas or Chinese Money Plant

Leaves drooping

It is not uncommon for Pileas’ leaves to droop, and unfortunately there are many different things that cause this. The first thing to check is if the plant is thirsty — if you haven’t watered it in a while, it’s possible that it’s just too dry and has lost its perkiness. Check the soil and if you find this the case (the soil is bone dry), simply give it a good water—ideally in the sink, and even leave it in a bowl with water for a few hours!

Drooping leaves on a Pilea can also be the result of overwatering. Make sure you are only watering when your plant’s soil is dry. If the plant has been severely overwatered, you may have a case of root rot and will need to repot.

Leaves curling

When the Pilea has curling leaves, it most likely is a case of too much sunlight, for example several hours of hot summer sun or strong afternoon sun.

Brown spots

Brown spots, like other issues with the Pilea, can mean many different things. For one, it could mean sunburn—make sure your plant is not getting harsh rays of sunlight for extended periods. Do you fertilize your Pilea? Make sure not to give it more than the recommended dose, as this could lead to fertilizer burn on the plant’s foliage. Finally, and particularly during the winter, make sure your plant isn’t too close to a drafty or freezing window. These plants like moderately warm environments and their leaves will show if exposed to cold temperatures.

White grains on the leaves

Worry not! Pileas develop white grains on their leaves which are simply mineral deposits. You can leave them be, or clean the leaves with a damp cloth.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Pilea Peperomiodes

Take care of your Pilea and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Pilea or Chinese Money Plant over time.

• Pruning & Shaping - Remove dry or dead leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring and summer months. If you would like to modify the shape of your Pilea, simply pinch off any undesired leaves at the base of the stem.

• Cleaning - The thick leaves of the Pilea can accumulate a lot of dust! Rinse them under the sink when watering, or gently wipe away dust with a wet cloth once every few weeks (this also helps the plant soak in more light!).

• Repotting - Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

  • When to repot - Pileas do not need to be repotted often. Repot with fresh soil once every 1-2 years.

  • Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Get your hands dirty - remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate a Pilea Peperomiodes

The Pilea is one of the easiest plants to propagate, hence earning itself the name “the friendship plant”, as it is so commonly propagated and passed on from one friend to another. Propagating is very simple, but see our full guide (with images) on how to propagate the Pilea if you need more assistance!

• Select a stem to propagate - Your Pilea will have one main mother plant and smaller babies that grow at the base of the mother plant. Using sharp, clean scissors or shears, remove one of these babies at the base. This will be the piece you propagate. Don’t have any babies yet? Wait for them to sprout up before propagating!

• Place in water - Find a clear glass and fill with water. Make sure only the stem is submerged, and no leaves are sitting in the water.

• Place in a bright area and wait! - Avoid any direct sun. You may need to change the water out every few days to keep it fresh. It usually takes just a few days for the root to start growing.

• Transfer to soil - After a week or so, transfer to indoor potting soil. A small pot is best — no larger than 6” in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - During the first few weeks, or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your Monstera. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times.

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The Zanzibar Gem enjoying a routine misting.

The typical home or office has low levels of humidity, but many common houseplants prefer moisture-rich environments. Particularly during the summer and winter when we use air conditioning or heaters, houseplants may suffer from a lack of humidity that they normally enjoy in the wild. Boosting moisture levels is an easy and simple way to help them thrive throughout the year.

How to increase humidity for plants

There are several ways to increase humidity for plants in the home or office. Here are some of the most popular methods:

• Mist your plants. Simple, right? Just remember to do it! Misting every day is great, though even just a few times a week can help. Though this is a more hands-on approach, caring for plants is indeed therapeutic and misting is no exception! We love this stylish polished brass mister, or this watering can with an already-integrated mister.

• Use a humidifier. Want to keep the humidity levels up all day long? Add a small humidifier to your space. This will of course increase humidity in your entire space, and you will need to refill it every few days or so, but this is an excellent way to keep moisture levels up for your plants.

• Create groupings. Plants release moisture through their leaves and as such can benefit from being grouped together. Group plants that require similar environments — Calatheas, for example, need lots of moisture — or use this as a method to keep humidity levels up while you travel.

• Use pebble trays. Another way to increase humidity for plants is to place them over a shallow tray with about one inch of pebbles. Fill the tray and pebbles about halfway up with water and place the plant on top (make sure the plant is not sitting in water as this may cause root rot). Change out the water periodically so that it doesn’t become a breeding ground for pests.

• Watch out for air vents. If you're turning on the AC or heater, move your plants out of the direct path of any air vents. Plants do not like getting blasted with hot or cold air, this will dry them out can lead to greater health issues over time.

Remember that mimicking our plants’ natural environments is key to keeping them happy and healthy. Stay curious about what makes your plant tick, and it will reward you for years to come!

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In the age of wellness and self-care, it has become abundantly clear that plants are good for us. But when it comes to air purification, there’s a lot of misleading information out there. How do plants improve our environments, and which plants clean the air? Will just one plant make a difference? What are the best air purifying indoor plants, including for low light spaces?

Let’s dive a little deeper and lean about how plants clean the air, and which are the best air purifying plants to add to your space!

How do plants clean the air?

Plants purify the air during photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert light and carbon dioxide into food to fuel growth and creating oxygen along the way. And in addition to removing CO2 and creating oxygen, many plants also absorb other gases and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) such as benzene and formaldehyde, which are found in many common household goods and are linked to various respiratory health issues.

TOp air purifying plants

Some plants are better at cleaning the air than others. According to the NASA clean air study, below are a few of the most powerful air-purifying plants:

• Snake Plant, particularly the Laurentii variety

• Palms like the Kentia Palm or Parlor Palm

• Silver Evergreen

• Devil’s Ivy, like the Cascading Pothos or Jade Pothos

• Ferns, like the Boston Fern or the Bird’s Nest Fern

• Spider Plant

• Ficus trees, like the Weeping Ficus or Rubber Tree

And many more! Check out our full collection of air purifying plants here.

do plants actually remove toxins from the air in my home?

While plants do in fact clean the air, one plant won’t necessarily make a big dent in your air quality. You need a relatively high concentration of plants in order to reap the benefits. That said, though a single desk plant might not make a difference, it certainly won’t cause any harm!

Thinking of adding a few plants to help freshen up your space? Shop our full collection of air purifying plants and get them delivered straight to your door.

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The Parlor Palm

AKA chamaedora elegans

AKA neanthe bella palm

An attractive and popular indoor plant, the Parlor Palm is an easy addition to any space. Its bright green foliage grows in clusters, giving it a lush, tropical feel. Read on for simple tips on how to care for a Parlor Palm indoor plant. This plant is also sometimes called the neanthe bella palm or by its botanical name chamaedora elegans.

What type of light does the Parlor Palm need?

The Parlor Palm enjoys bright indirect light, but can also easily adjust to medium and even low levels of light. Avoid direct sunlight that may burn your plant’s leaves.

How to water your Parlor palm

Water about once a week (or more often if environment is very warm) to keep soil evenly moist but never soggy. Mist between waterings to provide humidity

How fast does the Parlor Palm grow?

The Parlor Palm is a slow grower and can reach up to one to two feet in height. Fertilize your Parlor Palm 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

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Common problems with the Parlor Palm

Brown or yellow leaves - underwatering or overwatering

• Symptom - brown leaves that wilt or dry out

• Cause - usually underwatering, or too dry of environment. However, if you water this plant excessively (allowing it to become soggy or waterlogged), this could also be the cause

• Remedy - If underwatered, remove the plant from its decorative pot and give a good shower in the sink. Regularly mist to increase moisture levels. If overwatered, aerate the soil, or simply hold off until the plant dries out a bit until the next watering. If it is very damaged, you may need to repot.

Brown tips - underwatering or over-fertilization

• Symptom - dried out, brown tips

• Cause - underwatered or too much fertilizer

• Remedy - Thoroughly water your plant by removing it from its decorative pot and watering in the sink. Alternatively, only fertilize once or twice in the spring/summer, and make sure to use a diluted dose.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Parlor Palm

Take care of your Parlor Palm and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for and growing your Parlor Palm over time.

• Pruning - remove old, unattractive or damaged leaves from the base of the plant with a clean blade, ideally during the dormant period.

• Trimming - if there is just a small portion of a leaf that was damaged such as the edges or tips, trim off any discoloration or blemishes by following the natural lines and shape of the leaf.

• Cleaning - regularly mist the Parlor Palm to keep it clean. If it is very dusty, you may want to use a damp cloth to wipe the leaves clean.

How to grow and repot the Parlor Palm

• Growing - Parlor Palms are slow growers and will grow even slower in low light conditions. During spring or summer, use a diluted fertilizer just once or twice to give your plant a vitamin boost.

• Repotting - L&G Parlor Palms come in 4” or 6” grow pots and only need to be repotted every few years and only if the plant is unhappy (i.e. has been overwatered) or to refresh the soil and give it new nutrients. If you’d like your plant to grow larger, find a new grow pot that is 2” larger than its current pot. If you’re happy with the current size, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Getting your hands dirty with or without a yard - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Be gentle— Parlor Palms have very delicate roots! At the bottom of the grow pot, and a layer of soil, then place the plant in the center of the pot and cover with new soil. Pat down firmly and water thoroughly. Place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate the Parlor Palm

The only way to propagate a Parlor Palm is by germinating the seeds. However, this is incredibly difficult to achieve indoors, and unfortunately, propagating is best left to growers.

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PARLOR PALM

A compact palm with bright green foliage and jungle vibes.

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Looking for the perfect houseplant for your bedroom?

The bedroom is one of the most intimate places in our home. It’s where we go to rest, relax, and recharge, and in many ways serves as a sanctuary for our bodies and minds.

Indoor plants can help create the perfect environment for some quality R&R, and their benefits go far beyond simply beautifying the space. Natural greenery has a long list of mental health benefits, helping to reduce stress and boost feel-good chemicals in our brain. They also aide in cleaning the air by filtering out harmful toxins often produced by common household items like carpet, paint, or the finish on our furniture.

Almost any living plant will improve your bedroom’s atmosphere, so when selecting your plants for the bedroom, choose something that speaks to you and that you will enjoy waking up to each day. For a bit of inspiration, read on to find our plant stylists’ picks for the best plants for your bedroom!

The Best plants for a Bedroom:

Snake Plant

Voted by Nasa as one of the best air-purifying plants, the Snake Plant is one of the best choices for the bedroom thanks to its unique ability to emit oxygen at nighttime, making for better and sounder sleep.

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Fiddle Leaf Fig

Serene and structural, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is an excellent choice for the brightly-lit bedroom, instantly creating a magazine-like feel in any space it adorns.

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Pink Rubber Plant

Add a splash of color to your bedroom with the Pink Rubber Plant, a lovely air-purifying ficus ideal for spaces with plenty of bright indirect light.

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Rubber Tree

The Ficus Elastica, or the Rubber Tree as it’s commonly known, is an excellent air purifier with deep burgundy leaves, guaranteed to bring beauty and calm to your bedroom oasis.

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Queen of Spades Anthurium

Bring everlasting flowers to your bedside table with the Queen of Spades Anthurium, an easy-care “flowering” plant that brightens any space and refreshes the air.

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Parlor Palm

Palms in general are known for their air-purifing qualities, and the Parlor Palm is no exception. This adorable plant comes in a variety of sizes and will bring instant jungle vibes to your bedroom. If you have the space, go for an extra large Kentia Palm.

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Need more inspiration? Check out how to make your bedroom a sanctuary, with tips from the experts at Parachute.

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False Aralia

AKA Dizygotheca elegantissima

A beautifully unique houseplant with wispy, textured foliage, the False Aralia (also known as Threadleaf Aralia and Spider Aralia) is a wonderful plant for any level of green thumb. Read up on what it takes to care for a False Aralia, from watering and light needs to problems and more.

What type of light does my False Aralia need?

The False Aralia does best bright indirect light. Be sure to keep it out of harsh direct sunlight as this will cause its leaves to brown.

How to water your False Aralia

Let your False Aralia dry out between waterings. Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week. Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may change during winter months. False Aralias also love an occasional bottom watering. Consider using a tool like a moisture meter to take the mystery out of your watering schedule.

How fast does the False Aralia grow?

False Aralias are relatively slow growers, but can reach a height of about 6ft when grown in a container.

Common problems with False Aralias

Leaves drooping

The most common cause of leaves drooping on a False Aralia is underwatering. Check the soil: f you suspect your plant is dry, give it a healthy watering and wait 24 hours to see if it perks back up.

Leaf shedding

False Aralias can be sensitive to change. When this plant begins to loose leaves, it is usually due to a change in its environment, whether that’s light, humidity levels or both. Be patient, sometimes it will take a few weeks for plants to adjust to their new home.

Another thing to keep in mind with leaf drop on False Aralias is that this plant typically loses its lower leaves over time. If you’d like to maintain its bushiness, prune it back once a year.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy False Aralia

Take care of your Aralia and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your False Aralia over time.

Pruning Your False Aralia

The False Aralia is a slow grower that requires very little pruning and maintenance over time. You will only need to prune your plant if you’d like to control its height or to encourage bushiness. If you’d like your plant to maintain it’s bush-like form, prune it back in the spring for fuller growth. Otherwise, it will slowly lose its lower leaves and take on a more tree-like appearance.

Cleaning Your False Aralia

With so many thin leaves, the False Aralia can be difficult to clean! We recommend regularly misting to keep dust off, and occasionally cleaning the leaves with a moist towel and L’Original black olive oil soap for plants.

How To Repot A False Aralia

Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 1-2 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

• When to repot - Aralias are particularly slow growing plants, but repotting them once a year in the spring will help them grow faster.

• Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil. You may need to cut back some of the roots to do this.

• Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

Need help repotting? Check out our Deluxe Repotting Kit which includes everything you need to repot your plant, including step by step instructions and a video tutorial with our Plant Doctors.

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False Aralia

A unique plant with textured, serrated foliage that requires little maintenance over time.

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The Rubber Tree

AKA ficus elastica
AKA ficus decora
AKA ficus robusta

The Rubber Tree, also known as a Rubber Plant or Ficus Elastica, is one of the hardiest members of the ficus family, often times notorious for being fickle, finicky, and for some just plain difficult. That tends to not be the case with the rubber tree, whose dark burgundy leaves shine with just a little TLC. Read on for simple tips to care for the Rubber Tree!

What type of light does the Rubber Tree need?

Rubber Trees perfer bright indirect light, though they can also adjust to medium levels of light. Place your Rubber Tree no further than three to four feet away from a bright window for best results.

How to water your Rubber Tree

Consistency is key! Water your Rubber Tree when the topsoil feels dry, usually once a week to every ten days. Avoid overwatering, and keep in mind that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months.

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How fast does the Rubber Tree grow?

In prime conditions, the Rubber Tree is a fast grower and can grow up to 10 feet tall indoors. Fertilize your Rubber Tree 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Shop leaf shine, insecticide and fungicide at leonandgeorge.com

Common problems with Rubber Trees

Yellow or brown leaves - overwatering

• Symptom - leaves turning yellow or brown, usually at the bottom of the tree

• Cause - too much water, not enough light

• Remedy - allow soil to dry out completely, sometimes this can take 2-3 weeks. Check the soil’s moisture through the drainage holes at the bottom. Overwatering can lead to more severe ailments and that may eventually require you change the soil.  

Read more about discolored leaves here.

Leaf drop - unstable temperatures

• Symptom - leaves dropping

• Cause - cold air drafts, overly dry climates, or not enough light

• Remedy - make sure your plant is placed away from air vents or cold air drafts. While rubber trees can adapt to indoor climates, they prefer warmth and high humidity. If the possible cause is not enough light, move the rubber tree to medium to brightly lit area.

Read more about Rubber Tree leaf drop.

Leaf droop - over or underwatering

• Symptom - leaves sagging or drooping

• Cause - most likely underwatering, but could also be overwatering

• Remedy - always check the soil before watering a Rubber Tree. It should be dry to the touch before watering again. If you suspect it’s been overwatered, allow soil to dry out completely before watering again.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Rubber Tree

Take care of your Rubber Tree and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Rubber Tree over time.

• Pruning - Remove dry or dead leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring and summer months. When pruning your rubber tree, wear gloves and protect your floor with newspaper — the sap that leaks out can be sticky and damage floors. Use sharp, clean shears and cut just above the node at a 90 degree angle.

• Cleaning - Take each leaf between two soft tissue cloths and wipe off the top to reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).

• Repotting - Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

  • When to repot - if the roots start to become visible outside the soil, it is time to consider repotting your rubber tree

  • Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate a Rubber Tree

Whether you want to recycle your Rubber Tree cuttings or you simply want to create a new plant, propagating the Rubber Tree is simple. Though there are many ways to do this, water propagation is generally the easiest way to go about it. Follow these instructions to propagate your Rubber Tree:

• Select a small branch to propagate - Using sharp, clean scissors or shears, cut a two to three inch branch just above a node (a leaf joint).

• Place in water - Find a clear glass and fill with water. Make sure only the stem of the branch is submerged, and no leaves are sitting in the water.

• Place in a bright area and wait! - Avoid any direct sun. You may need to change the water out every few days to keep it fresh. It could take up to several weeks for your cutting to form roots.

• Transfer to soil - After some time, you will start to see tiny white roots emerging from the cutting. Give it a few more days until the roots have grown, and then transfer to indoor potting soil. A small pot is best — no larger than 6” in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - During the first few weeks, or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your plant. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times.

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Shop Rubber Trees at leonandgeorge.com

RUBBER TREE

This plant grows quickly in ideal conditions and is easy to care for. The crimson casings of new leaves adds a pop of color and is the perfect statement piece for budding plant parents.

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We think that the Dracaena Lisa is an elegant hero of the indoor plant game. Its statuesque height and fun, textural foliage belie the fact that the Lisa is actually a truly low-maintenance Dracaena variety, with a tolerance for varied light (from low/medium indirect light to brighter, indirect rays) and a low-key approach to watering. Still, pesky, browning leaf tips can occur with any plant, even the lax Lisa. But don’t worry! It’s also easily resolved. Just read our tips below.

Not Enough Humidity

The Dracaena Lisa is native to tropical, Southeast Africa, and in its natural habitat it enjoys high humidity levels. These are tough to re-create at home, but we have our ways around that. If you notice drying, brown edges and tips on your Dracaena Lisa’s foliage, it is likely due to low humidity in your home. This can be rectified by misting your Dracaena Lisa up to three times a week. Additionally, you’ll want to make sure that your Dracaena Lisa is not placed too closely to appliances that emit dry air: like vents, air conditioners, or even doors that are constantly opened and closed.

How to fix your Dracaena Lisa’s brown and dry leaves

You can rehab your Dracaena Lisa’s leaf tips by trimming brown edges and tips off with clean, sharp scissors or shears. Cut the brown area off of the leaf with the scissors or shears pointed in the leaf’s natural growth direction. Once you have manicured your Dracaena Lisa’s foliage, give it a thorough misting, and it will look brand-new.

Plant Doctor Support

If you follow the steps above and your Dracaena Lisa continues to exhibit a high percentage of dry, browning leaf tips, you can reach out to the Plant Doctor for an assessment and custom assistance. Just log into your Léon & George account, click “Contact Plant Doctor”, and attach photos of your Lisa as a whole, as well as close-ups of the dry and browning foliage areas. The Plant Doctor team will get back to you with an assessment and care instructions within 2-3 business days.

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Dracaena Lisa

Our statuesque and low-maintenance wonder plant, with lush, textural foliage and a varied light tolerance. The Dracaena Lisa is an exquisite floor plant for any space.

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