We all know that plants clean our air, but did you know that some are especially good at filtering toxins found in everyday materials like household cleaners, carpet, and paint? With our environments sometimes even more polluted indoors than out, it’s no wonder that more and more companies are choosing plants to help improve their office air quality. Read on to learn about one of the many benefits of plants in the workplace, and which plants will give you the most bang for your buck in terms of air-purification!

The Best Air-Purifying Plants

When it comes to removing harmful toxins from the air, some plants just pack a really good punch! Here are some of the top-rated air-purifiers according to Nasa:

Snake Plant

The Snake Plant can thrive virtually anywhere.

Of all the great air-purifying plants, none performs quite as well as the Snake Plant according to a clean air study by Nasa. What also makes this plant great for an office is that it is nearly indestructible — it’s adaptable to almost any light conditions, and can withstand long periods of neglect.

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Rubber Tree

The Rubber Tree, also known as ficus elastica, is yet another wonderful air-purifier, particularly known for removing formaldehyde from our environment. And best yet — of all the ficus family members, the Rubber Tree is probably the sturdiest one out there. Go for the classic deep burgundy foliage, or the Pink Rubber Tree, which reflects pink hues off its leaves all year long.

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A dark, glossy head-turner: The Rubber Tree.

Tall Air-Purifying Plants

The Dragon Tree: tall, lean, and easy-going.

Dragon Tree

Plants that belong to the Dracaena family are known to be great air-purifiers, and the Dragon Tree is no exception. Lean and tall, this plant is not only a head-turner, but also does wonders in removing toxins like xylene and formaldehyde, which are found in everyday items like hairspray and furniture varnish.

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Kentia Palm

Looking for an instant jungle? The Kentia Palm will bring vacation vibes all year long to your office, while also working to release moisture into the air and remove harmful toxins, most notable benzene which is commonly found in paints, varnishes, gasoline, and detergents.

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The best air-purifying plants for the workplace: the Kentia Palm.

Dracaena Compacta

The Dracaena Compacta, a quirky floor plant that requires little maintenance.

The Dracaena Compacta is another powerhouse when it comes to air-purification. Just one of these potent little houseplants will quickly filter out 90% of the toxins in a 100 square foot space! A unique houseplant that seems to have come straight out of a fairytale, the JC Compacta.is popular not only for its unique shape and foliage but also because it works wonders in cleaning our air.

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Popular Desk Plants

Cascading Pothos

The Cascading Pothos is a gorgeously voluptuous houseplant that not only can survive with little to note natural light, but also is an excellent plant for filtering out things like benzene, formaldehyde, and carbon monoxide.

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The Cascading Pothos is popular for offices due to its ability to thrive in low light and its lush, trailing tendrils.

Braided Money Tree

The Braided Money Tree: a plant thought to bring good luck and prosperity to its owners.

The Braided Money Tree is one of the most popular office plants around, thanks to its reputation for bringing good fortune, prosperity and clean air to its owners!

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Philodendron Brasil

An adorable trailing plant with bright, multi-colored leaves, the Philodendron Brasil is known for removing formaldehyde from the air.

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Check out our full collection of air-purifying plants, and order for your office today!

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xl easy care office bundle

A full set of office plants, in just a few clicks. Our easy care office bundle was designed with workspaces in mind and is an easy and instant way to bring your space to life.

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What are signs of an unhealthy Fiddle Leaf Fig?

Fiddle Leaf Figs are notoriously finicky plants. From brown spots to dropping leaves, there are a few common ailments of this plant that can sicken it, or worse, quickly lead to its demise. Keeping an eye out and catching them early is key to keeping your plant happy and healthy. Look for these signs of a potentially unhealthy Fiddle Leaf Fig.

1. Brown spots on the leaves

2. New growth is smaller than the older leaves

3. Dropping leaves

4. Leaves turning yellow

5. Stunted or slow growth

6. Dirty or dusty leaves

Brown spots on the leaves

Fiddle Leaf Figs are incredible prone to browning on their leaves. While minor markings here and there are nothing to worry about, brown spots that begin to develop and spread should be looked into.

Unfortunately it can be quite difficult to diagnose the issue, as most brown spots on Fiddles are caused by two opposing forces: over watering or under watering. Here’s how to tell the difference:

Brown spots that start in the middle of the leaf and spread outwards are likely caused by overwatering, which in turn causes root rot. Root rot is a fungal infection that will spread to the leaves and eventually kill your plant. If your plant has root rot, you will need to repot, sooner rather than later. Remove the plant from its soil, thoroughly wash the roots and remove any that are brown or mushy. Afterwards, repot in fresh soil with proper drainage and cut off the affected leaves.

Are your Fiddle’s brown spots are starting on the edge of the leaves and spreading inward? This is likely caused by the plant being overly dry. Give your Fiddle a good shower, and also make sure it’s not placed too close to any air vents or heaters, that will likely dry the plant out faster than what’s ideal.

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Finally, brown spots may appear randomly due to trauma. A plant can go through trauma simply by moving homes (i.e. changing environments). If your plant has just one or two damaged brown leaves, cut them off at the stem and give your plant time to recover.

The new growth is smaller than the older leaves

New growth is always a great sign of a healthy plant, and if the leaves on your Fiddle grow large and strong, that means your plant is thriving.

However, if the new leaves grow in small and stunted, it could be a sign that your plant is lacking in nutrients. If it’s been years since you repotted, consider repotting to give your plant fresh soil, or simply fertilize your plant in the spring and summer to give it the extra nutrients it needs.

Dropping leaves

Fiddle Leaf Figs can sometimes seem to drop leaves at the drop of a hat. One leaf here and there is nothing to worry about, but if your plant has lost multiple leaves within a few days, you will need to act fast to save the tree. Once again, the most likely causes of leaf drop in Fiddle Leaf Figs is under watering or over watering. So how can you tell the difference? Look at where the leaves are falling from the plant: if the older leaves (towards the bottom) are going first, it’s likely over watering. However, if the leaves are falling off from all over the plant, it’s likely under watering. Here are more ways to tell the difference.

Leaves turning yellow

Are you seeing yellow leaves on your Fiddle Leaf Fig? There are a few possible causes:

• Not enough light. Fiddle Leaf Figs need as much bright indirect light as possible. A bit of direct sunlight is fine too, but avoid areas of medium or low light. Also keep in mind that a Fiddle that does not get enough light is more prone to over watering.

• Poor nutrition. Your Fiddle could show yellow leaves due to a lack of nutrients in the soil, and you may consider feeding your plant with liquid fertilizer 

• Pests. Fiddles may also show yellow leaves if they are suffering from an insect infestation. If you suspect this is the case, thoroughly examine both the top and bottom sides of the leaves for any possible bugs.

Stunted or slowed growth

Healthy Fiddles usually grow new leaves every four to six weeks during spring and summer. Growth tends to be in spurts, and it’s possible to see your plant grow several new leaves in a matter of just a few days or weeks! In the winter, it’s normal not to have any new growth. If you aren’t seeing the type of growth that’s normal with this plant, once again, it may be in need of fresh nutrients in the form of a good plant fertilizer .

Dirty or dusty leaves

When was the last time you cleaned the leaves of your plant? Plants not only absorb sunlight through their leaves, but they also breathe through them too! If your plant has a layer of dust on its large leaves, it won’y be able to perform either of these functions as well as we’d like. Cleaning the leaves on your Fiddle Leaf Fig every few months is a great way to keep the plant healthy, glowing, and vibrant. Here you can read about a few different ways to clean your Fiddle Leaf Fig.

While Fiddle Leaf Figs can be relatively low maintenance plants, they are known to be pickier than most. Keep a regular watering schedule, fertilize in the spring and summer, and above all, make sure your plant is getting the light it needs throughout the year (yes, this may mean moving it in the winter!). Keep an eye out for any of these signs, as catching them early is key to keeping your plant looking fresh and feeling good!

This post was adapted from the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource by expert Claire Akin. Head to their website to learn more about caring for the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

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A strikingly unique plant, the Magenta Triostar aka Stromanthe Triostar is truly one of a kind.

The Stromanthe Triostar or Magenta Triostar is a beautiful, low-maintenance plant that adds vibrant colors and lush greenery to any room. Native to the tropical rainforests of South America, specifically Brazil, they are a popular choice as indoor plants due to their attractive, colorful foliage and relatively easy care requirements.

Could this plant be right for you? Read on to learn a bit more about what makes the Stromanthe Triostar so unique, and to see if it’s the right fir for your home.

Your Stromanthe Likes Light

Like many tropical plants, the Stromanthe Triostar requires bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. Direct sunlight can scorch its leaves and cause damage. In its natural habitat, it grows under the canopy of larger trees, receiving dappled sunlight. Indoors, it is best to place the plant near a window that receives bright, indirect light, but not direct sunlight. If your window is too sunny, you can place a sheer curtain to filter the light. You can also supplement the light with artificial grow lights if needed.

A pop of pink! The Stromanthe Triostar is also often referred to as the Magenta Triostar.

…And They Like Humidity Even More

The Stromanthe Triostar does best when its soil maintains a consistent level of moisture. As such, these humidity loving plants won’t love sporadic or infrequent watering, and they also should be kept at arm’s distance from air conditioning units or heaters. And while watering your Stromanthe is important for its health, but it's also important to avoid overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings, and be sure to use well-draining soil to prevent root rot.

They’re Not the Easiest Plant to care for

Like many tropical plants, the Stromanthe can sometimes take some patience before finding the ideal conditions to help it thrive. While still considered a relatively easy-care plant, we do not recommend it for those who travel often or are likely to forget to water, as plant can be a diva when it comes to their watering routine!

Stromanthe Triostar is a Prayer Plant

The Stromanthe triostar is a proud member of the prayer plant family— but what does that mean? These fascinating plants are called "prayer plants" because of their unique ability to raise and lower their leaves in a manner that resembles hands in prayer. During the day, they lower again, capturing as much light as possible.

If Green ain’t your thing

While the Stromanthe Triostar has some green markings on its foliage, the predominant colors are actually bright pinks, magentas, and creamy whites. A variegated plant at its finest, the Stromanthe Triostar is often referred to as the Magenta Triostar thanks to its vibrant pink leaves that appear to be painted on by Mother Nature herself.

A plant that’s safe for pets

Do you have a curious pet or child at home? The good news for pet owners and parents is that the Magenta Triostar is completely safe for pets: it is non-toxic and causes no harm if consumed. That said, it’s always best to keep plants outside the reach of pets and children, if anything for the health and well-being of the plant!

Feeding Your Stromanthe: A Fertilizer 101

As a houseplant, the Stromanthe Triostar does best when regularly fertilized, particularly during the spring and summer. Use a balanced fertilizer designed for indoor plants, usually one to two times a month between March and October. Boost Vitaminé is a gentle, all natural plant food that can even be used (albeit less frequently) during the winter!

How To Select A Healthy, Thriving Stromanthe Triostar

If you're interested in buying a Stromanthe Triostar, be sure to do your research and choose a reputable seller. Look for a healthy plant with vibrant, colorful foliage— it should not have a pale or yellowed appearance. If you see a few brown tips or yellowed leaves, don’t be worried— this is very common with this plant and not necessarily a sign of ill health.

Despite its bold colors, he Stromanthe Triostar blends in beautifully with any type of decor.

Avoid purchasing your Stromanthe from a Garden Center

Buying a Stromanthe Triostar, like any plant, is an investment, and you want to make sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. But cutting corners from the beginning by purchasing your plant for the lowest possible price can come back to bite you in the pocket. Remember that the plants offered by garden centers may have an appealing price tag, but no guarantee of pest- free, well-tended health.

Plants at garden stores are frequently given the same water, light and care regardless of their species. This does not bode well for Stromanthe varieties, which prefer more frequent watering than most typical houseplants.

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Magenta Triostar

A striking accent plant with exotic magenta, cream, and green colored foliage. It is a member of the prayer plant family, with leaves that close at night and open during the day. The Triostar prefers prefers medium light and is a great air purifier.

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Olive Tree

AKA Olea europaea

With their elegant, silver-green foliage and graceful silhouettes, the Olive Tree or Olea europaea is a time-tested, infinitely elegant legacy tree and indoor plant for outdoor and indoor spaces that receive plenty of bright light. This plant variety is naturally both pest and drought resistant and easy to care for. But like all living things in the gardening realm, they have their own requirements and preferences for care. So read on and explore tips on optimal planters and dive into the horticulture of the Olea europaea. 

How Much light do Olive Trees need?

The Olive Tree needs ample direct sunlight to thrive and produce fruit — ideally at least six hours a day or more of direct sunlight. Generally speaking, it is best if Olive Trees are placed outdoors. Refrain from placing in low light or medium light areas.

Water

Check moisture of topsoil weekly and give plant four cups of water when top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering and too much damp soil to prevent root-rot. Occasionally mist your Olive Tree to increase the humid climate. Prevent the soil from drying out.

Growth

It can take several months to years for Olive Trees to begin blooming fruit. Remember that light and full sun = fruit, and fertilize every two weeks during spring, summer and fall. Ensure your Olive Tree is receiving the right humidity,

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Common problems with Olive Trees

Weeds

Symptom: Other plants growing in your Olive Tree’s pot and soil. 

Cause: Particularly young Olive Trees can experience competition from opportunistic weeds.

Remedy: Pluck the weeds out as soon as you see them and make sure to get the roots out. Gentle herbicides can be used but are usually not required.

Yellow Leaves: Not Enough Light

Symptom: A large amount of yellow leaves in the tree’s canopy.

Cause: Too much shade, not enough direct light.

Remedy: Ensure that your tree is in a space that receives ample direct sunlight for at least 8 hours/day.

Yellow Leaves: Needs Fertilizer

Symptom: Majority of canopy exhibiting yellow leaves.

Cause: The tree needs more nitrogen, which is available through fertilizer.

Remedy: Give your tree a balanced fertilizer every two weeks from spring through fall. 

Shop the Olive Tree at leonandgeorge.com

Can I keep an Olive Tree indoors?

One of the most common question our Plant Stylists receive is whether or not Olive Trees can survive indoors, and while we don’t necessarily recommend it, this plant can be kept indoors if that area receives enough light and humidity—at least four hours a day of direct sun minimum. However, it is unlikely to bloom or produce fruit indoors.

If you’re interested in this look for your home, try the Black Olive Tree, a similar variety of plant that does better indoors. Read more about the differences between the Olive Tree and the Black Olive Tree aka Shady Lady.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Olive Tree

Care for your plant and it will thrive for years to come. See these simple tips to keep your tree flourishing. 

• Pruning: your tree will not need to be pruned for the first 2+ years of its life with you. When it is time, prune off any yellow or dying leaves from your tree with clean, sharp shears. Limited pruning to the fall and winter months. 

• Fertilizing: fertilize your tree twice monthly during the warmer months including spring, summer and fall with a balanced slow-release fertilizer. During these months, your Olive Tree may need to be watered more frequently.

• Pests: To keep your olive trees thriving, regular inspections are crucial to catch signs of pests such as mealybugs, aphids, or spider mites early. Consider introducing neem oil as organic pest control methods

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How to propagate an Olive Tree

Beautiful plants are wonderful gifts to share and easy to grow, some Olive Tree varieties can be propagated from cuttings. Only propagate during summer with this one, when your tree experiences its highest rate of growth.

• Prepare a rooting container or grower pot: a small nursery pot with drainage, and fill it with fruit tree potting soil and watch your planted roots grow

• Select an eight-inch long, hardwood tip from one of your tree’s branches.

• Trim the branch with clean, sharp shears. Be sure to sever it directly below a leaf “node or bud.”

• Remove all but six or seven leaves from the branch.

• Coat the cut end of the branch in 0.2-percent IBA rooting talc.

• Plant the branch in the rooting container and place it outdoors in a spot that receives partial shade.

• Mist the branch and its foliage regularly. 

• Check for roots after three months. Allow it to grow within the rooting container until sturdy, then transplant to a new pot, preferably during autumn.

Incorporating Olive trees into your collection of house plants can be a rewarding experience for any gardener. Their resilient and tolerant nature makes them an excellent choice for outdoor and indoor spaces, thriving in high light exposure. The lush foliage not only enhances your living environment but also contributes to improved air quality as they purify the indoor air. As you embark on this green journey, consider exploring our nursery for Olive Trees. Happy gardening!

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Olive Tree

A classic and elegant addition to any brightly lit space, plus naturally pest and drought resistant.

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The Calandiva

AKA Snowdrop Calandiva

AKA Florist’s Kalanchoe

AKA Flaming Katy

With dainty clusters of rose-like flowers, the Calandiva is a popular cultivar (variety) of the Kalanchoe succulent family. Though this plant’s buds typically appear in the fall, followed by flowers in late winter and spring, with a bit of patience it can be “tricked” to blooming at its owner’s desire. Read on for simple tips on how to care for the beautiful Calandiva.

• Lighting requirements

• How to water Calandivas

• Calandiva Growth Rate

• Common Problems

• Pinching & Pruning

• How to Repot the Calandiva

• How to Promote Flowering

• How to Propagate the Calandiva

• Shop the Calandiva

How much light does the Calandiva need?

As a succulent, this plant does best with plenty of bright indirect light. Avoid harsh direct sunlight. In the winter or once their flowers have bloomed, they can withstand medium levels of light.

How to water a Calandiva

Water your plant sparingly and keep in mind that it is best to err on the side of under-watering. Water the base of the soil once every one to two weeks, or when it feels completely dry to the touch. You may water a bit more when the plant is in bloom.

Are Calandivas fast growers?

The Calandiva is a relatively slow grower that will reach approximately 12-18” tall. Fertilize your plant once a month in the spring and summer.

Common problems with the Calandiva

Yellow or brown edges

If you see yellow or brown edges on just one or two leaves of your Calandiva, odds are it’s just those leaves’ time to go (nothing is wrong with your plant!). Simply remove them at the base of the stem so the plant does not waste any more energy on these leaves. However, if you see yellow or brown edges all over the plant, it’s most likely due to either overwatering or not enough light, or a combination of both.

No flowers

The Calandivas’ flowers have seasons: during the fall as the days get shorter, the plant prepares to bloom, and will show flowers in the winter and spring. As such, short days and long nights are what make the Calandiva naturally bloom. While this may happen naturally indoors, it’s also possible it won’t. That’s because your plant may be receiving too much artificial light once the sun goes down (yes, plants notice artificial light!). If possible, place your Calandiva in an area that is dark for at least 14 hours a day. This may require moving it in the early evening as you begin to turn lights on in your home, or placing it in an area of your home that you do not use at night. Once your plant’s buds have formed, the plant can remain anywhere in bright indirect light.

Once the buds open up, flowers will last generally around six weeks. Read more detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to make your Calandiva flower below.

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Calandiva

Take care of your Calandiva and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for and growing your plant over time.

Pinching

Trim or pinch off (with your fingers) spent flowers about six weeks after they’ve bloomed, or once they shown signs of withering, and cut back the tall stem that rises from the flowers after this period.

Pruning

Minor pruning goes a long way with the Calandiva. After the flowering period, cut back the taller leaves of the plant, cutting below the second or third new leaf of each stem. Take a step back to take note of the plant’s overall shape, and remove leaves as necessary to maintain the full and bushy appearance.

How to grow and repot the Calandiva

• Growing - Calandivas are slow growers. During spring and summer, fertilize once a month. As detailed above, minor pruning and pinching will help maintain its full shape and appearance.

• Repotting - Léon & George Calandivas come in 6” grow pots and only need to be repotted every few years and only if the plant is unhappy (i.e. has been overwatered) or to refresh the soil and give it new nutrients. If you’d like your plant to grow larger, find a new grow pot that is 2” larger than its current pot. If you’re happy with the current size, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil. Make sure to use well-draining or succulent soil for the Calandiva.

  • Getting your hands dirty with or without a yard - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. At the bottom of the grow pot, and a layer of soil, then place the plant in the center of the pot and cover with new soil. Pat down firmly and water thoroughly. Place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle into its new home.

How to promote flowering on your Calandiva

As mentioned above, Calandivas flower typically in the winter and spring, encouraged by the short days and long nights that begin in the fall. In order to ensure your plant flowers to its full potential each year, you may need to take a few extra steps to meet its needs:

• Come fall, place your plant in an area that is dark at least 14 hours a day (no artificial light). This could be a room in your home that you do not use at night, or if you must, move the plant to a closet in the late afternoon as you begin to turn lights on in your home.

• Make sure your plant receives “long nights” (~14 hours) for about six weeks. Water sparingly or less than you normally would during this time.

• After about six weeks, you should start to see buds form. At this time, you can place your plant anywhere you like so that it receives bright indirect light. Your flowers should bloom shortly thereafter!

How to propagate the Calandiva

There are a few different ways to propagate the Calandiva. You can either divide your Calandiva, or, more easily and without making a mess, take cuttings from your plant:

1. Select a leaf to cut or snap off - Ideally you can use some of the cuttings after pruning! Make sure the cutting has at least two leaves, and do not to take any stems that are flowering.

2. Cut it off - Using a clean blade, cut the stem off, or snap it off with your fingers.

3. Let it heal - Let the leaf dry out for a few days. It should “heal”, forming a callus over where it was cut off.

4. Place in soil- Put the calloused end into moist, well-draining soil (succulent mix). Keep the soil just damp to the touch until the plant is rooted, usually within two to three weeks.

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Are you ready to care for your very own Calathea?

With their ethereal beauty and deeply colored foliage, Calatheas are beloved for the spellbinding presence that they bring to any space. 

They also have a special quality, known as nyctinasty: their sensitive leaves move in reaction to the light they receive. In the evening, they turn their leaves up, and during daylight hours, they lower them in a beautiful Calathea sun salutation. This behavior is why they’re lovingly referred to as Prayer Plants.

But like any goddess accustomed to being adored, Calatheas appreciate care and consideration. Praise them as you should, and they’ll flourish for years to come. Just follow these 10 commandments! 

1. Lighting requirements for Calatheas

2. Humidity requirements for Calatheas

3. A note on A/C and heating

4. Temperature requirements for Calatheas

5. Fertilizing your Calathea

6. Tips and tricks for watering

7. Pruning unattractive leaves

8. Common problems that may arise

9. Repotting your Calathea

10. Grouping other plants with the Calathea

1. Give Them the Lighting They Love 

Your Calathea does not want a sunburn. Ensure that it receives indirect light- medium is best, but low light can be well-tolerated- without exposing your plant to the sun’s direct harsh rays. When in doubt, picture your Calathea in its native habitat: a moist, humid rainforest. The light is filtered by a thick canopy of trees, and the air is heavy with mist. These are the conditions that Calatheas love. So don’t be afraid to keep her in the bathroom!

2. Like all of us, Calatheas Need the Occasional Spa Day 

A Native of Brazil, the Calathea appreciates a humid environment which can be difficult to create in indoor spaces. So plan on misting your Calathea regularly (once a week is ideal) to ensure it receives the moisture it craves. Misting is also a great way of interacting with your Calathea and keeping yourself busy without overwatering it, a common mistake that can cause damage that is difficult to undo!

3. Keep Your Calathea Away From Dry Breezes and Appliances

Calatheas are sensitive to even small changes in their environment. Because of this, it’s best to keep them away from vents, air conditioners or heaters, and doors that are frequently opened and closed. 

4. A Steady Temperature Is A Must

Seasons change, but your Calatheas should never have to feel a significant temperature shift. Keep these tropical plants comfortable by ensuring a steady temperature within the range of 65-80 degrees year-round, and your Calathea will thank you for it! 

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5. Fertilize Your Calathea With Care- and Only During Its Growing Seasons

Calatheas do not need to be fertilized during the winter months, but once Spring arrives, your Calathea will appreciate a monthly dose of foliar plant food like our Foliar Feed, or another gentle fertilizer. This feeding schedule can be continued through the Summer and Fall. 

You may feel the urge to feed your Calathea during the slow winter months, but remember that these plants do not grow nearly as much during the cold season and require less food and water during this time. Over-fertilizing has consequences, so be mindful of the particular needs of this delicate and beautiful plant variety.

6. Give Your Calathea A Long Drink of Water

If you notice that your Calathea’s leaves are curling inward and appear dry, your plant may be signaling that it is under-watered. You can give your Calathea a long drink by removing your plant from its ceramic planter, while keeping it in its plastic nursery pot, and placing it in a sink or bowl. Water the Calathea thoroughly and allow it to sit in the collected water for a few hours. Its roots will drink up exactly as much water as they need. After a few hours, remove your Calathea from the sink or bowl and allow it to drain. Your Calathea should show signs of improving health within a day.

7. Prune Unhealthy Leaves 

It’s normal to feel trepidation about pruning (cutting leaves or stems off of your plant.) However, it’s actually great to get in the practice of pruning your plants because pruning offers so many benefits to the plant’s overall health. All plants will grow over time if they receive the light and water that they need, and all plants will experience occasional dying leaves. It’s just part of life! 

Don’t be afraid to prune off leaves of your Calathea that appear dead or mostly dead. You can simply cut them with scissors or pruning shears at the spot where they meet the stem or base of the plant. If your Calathea’s leaf has only one area of browning, you can trim the brown area off by following the natural curve of the leaf with scissors. If you need a little more guidance, head here for a full step-by-step guide to pruning houseplants.

8. As With All Living Things, Patience is Key!

Calatheas are known for being fussy plants. Like many indoor plants, they’re native to very moist and tropical locations that are a world away from most of our home environments. Your Calathea may experience leaf drop, browning or other growing pains- especially as it becomes accustomed to a new home. 

The flip side, of course, (and it’s so worth it!) is that it will also generate new growth and adorn your home with beauty in the months and years to come. So be patient as your Calathea settles in, and take time to give her special care. She may be a diva, but it’s all part of what makes her a beautiful and unique plant. 

9. Don’t Be Afraid to Repot

As with pruning, repotting can feel like a daunting responsibility, and one that you might rather avoid. That being said, there are tremendous benefits to repotting your Calathea every year or two. 

Over time, soil loses its nutrients- they’re used up by the plants to keep them growing healthy and strong. Repotting is a great opportunity to replace some of that old soil with new, nutrient-rich soil for your Calathea to enjoy. Repotting your Calathea in a larger pot also ensures that your plant has the space to spread out and push out new growth! First time repotting? See our full guide to learn how to repot your plant.

10. Introduce the Company of Friends

Did you know that plants love to be grouped together? By arranging your houseplants close to one another, they create a mini-biome of moisture that can benefit them all. Grouping your plants together also makes it easier to remember to water, feed and pamper them! Just remember to be sure that the plants you’re grouping together will thrive in the conditions of the space, and that their light and water requirements align. 

Consider the rule of three: groupings of three plants in one space are aesthetically harmonious and easy to tend to- especially if you keep your mister and watering can right by them. (The House of Botanicals Watering Can, for instance, contains a mister and watering spout in one, and it’s so pretty that it functions as decor!) 

Every new plant is a new adventure, and Calatheas are no exception. 

They’re gorgeous, spiritual and have a vibrant history of varied uses. So embrace your Calathea, and don’t forget that there’s a wealth of information available to support you on your journey right here. 

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The Cascading Pothos, also known as simply Pothos or Devil’s Ivy, is one of the easiest plants out there to care for, and a great plant for beginners. Learn the basics of Pothos plant care including light requirements, watering frequency, and how to troubleshoot common problems you may encounter along the way.

How much light does a Pothos need?

Pothos prefer bright indirect light, though they can easily survive in low-light environments. Keep your plant out of harsh direct sunlight as their leaves will quickly burn.

How to water your Pothos

Let your plant dry out between waterings. Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week.

• Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months or if the plant is getting little light.

How fast does a Pothos grow?

In prime conditions, the Pothos is an incredibly fast grower and its tendrils can grow over 10 feet long! Fertilize your plant 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Pothos leaves turning yellow

Are your Pothos’ leaves yellow? Pothos have many leaves and if it’s just one or two and the rest of the plant looks healthy, most likely those leaves are just on their way out. You should be able to easily pluck them off. This is totally normal and nothing to worry about!

If you notice many yellow leaves on your Pothos, it could be a sign of overwatering. Check the soil and make sure it dries out before watering again.

Pothos leaves wilting or drooping

If your Pothos looks droopy or the leaves are wilting, most likely your plant is under-watered. This is easy to check by simply touching the soil, or checking the weight of the plant (lift it up— does it feel very light? If so, it needs a good drink!). Sometimes Pothos become so dry that when you water it, the water just drains right through. If this seems to be the case, let your plant sit in water for a few hours (no more than one day) to drink as much as it needs from the bottom up.

RESTORATIVE PLANT CARE ESSENTIALS

Keep your (plant’s) medicine cabinet fully stocked. Our complete set of natural vitamins and pest solutions is the ultimate curative remedy for plants undergoing stress due to common ailments such as fungus or infestation.

Heal Your Pothos

Shop the Cascading Pothos at leonandgeorge.com

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Pothos

Take care of your Pothos and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Pothos over time.

• Pruning your pothos - Remove yellow leaves all year round, and prune often if you’d like a fuller, bushier look. Simply cut the tendrils just below the node.

• Cleaning your pothos - With so much foliage, the Pothos can be annoying to clean! Mist regularly to keep dust off, and once ever few months use a damp cloth to clean each leaf and reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).

• Repotting your pothos - Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

  • When to repot - Pothos are incredibly hardy plants and can live in the same pot for years. If you want your Pothos to grow very large, repot every 2-3 years.

  • Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow bushier, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

  • Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

• Staking your pothos - Some Pothos owners like to stake their plant to encourage vertical growth. You can do this by simply inserting a moss totem and attaching the stems of the plant to it with prongs.

Shop the Cascading Pothos at leonandgeorge.com

How to propagate a Pothos

Whether you want to recycle your Pothos cuttings after pruning or you simply want to create a new plant, know that the Pothos, thanks to its aerial roots, is one of the easiest plants to propagate. Though there are many ways to do this, water propagation is generally the easiest way to go about it. Follow these instructions to propagate your Pothos:

• Select a stem to propagate - Using a clean blade, cut an inch or two below an aerial root. You don’t have to propagate with an aerial root, but this is a guaranteed way of propagation success!

• Place in water - Find a clear glass and fill with water. Make sure only the stem is submerged, and no leaves are sitting in the water.

• Place in a bright area and wait! - Avoid any direct sun. It usually takes just a week or so for the root to start growing.

• Transfer to soil - After a couple weeks, transfer to indoor potting soil. A small pot is best — no larger than 6” in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - During the first few weeks, or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your new Pothos. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times until the plant is thoroughly rooted in the soil, at which point you can water every time the soil dries out.

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes.

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Cascading Pothos

A popular, attractive, and truly easy-care plant, the Cascading Pothos has smooth and leathery heart-shaped leaves and is adaptable to virtually any environment.

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The Monstera Deliciosa, prepared for winter!

Winter is here, and your plants know it.

Just like us humans, plants also notice the changing of the seasons and winter is no exception. During this time, plants go into dormancy and are often not actively growing. Shorter days mean less sunlight, and less sunlight means less energy to use for growing. Read our tips on how to care for your plant in the winter and successfully make it to spring.

Adjust your watering schedule

Shorter days in winter translates to plants grow more slowly, and this also means they often tend to take longer to dry out between waterings. That means you should water less frequently, making sure to always check the soil before watering. Depending on where you live, you may have already adjusted your watering schedule in the fall.

Let there be light

Another adjustment you may have already made in the fall, make sure your plant is getting enough sunlight during the short and sometimes dreary days of winter. Plants that do well in one area of your home may not be as happy as they were before. Signs that your plant is not getting enough light may include pale, yellow, or brown leaves, leggy branches, or leaning towards the light. If this might be an issue for you, there are a few things you can do to mitigate during these darker months of the year: move the plant closer to a light source for the fall and winter, rotate it every few weeks, or install an artificial (grow) light.

Cut back fertilizing

The best time to regularly fertilize your plant is when it’s actively growing in the spring and summer. That said, you may try using gentle fertilizers like Boost Vitaminé natural plant food once a month during the winter to help keep your plant nourished. Do not use more than once a month during this time, though, as you may risk fertilizer burn on the leaves of your plant.

Put away the pruners

You may remove dry, old, or unattractive leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring or summer. While it is healthy to periodically prune indoor plants, pruning during the winter may come as a shock to a plant whose resources are already limited.

Up the humidity

Similar to air conditioning, strong heaters can have a negative effect on our plants in the winter as they dry out the air. To combat dry atmospheres, mist your plant here and there (daily is great, but once or twice a week works too!).

Keep them warm

Like us our plants don’t like air that is too cold. This may be hard to avoid in the middle of winter, but aim to keep your plants at a temp that would be comfortable for you, somewhere between 65º-75ºF.

Move plants away from icy windowpanes

Depending on where you live and the type of window in your home, your plant may not like to be close or touching a window. If the window feels cold to you, it probably feels cold to your plant, which may cause leaf damage or shock.

Feel prepared for the long winter ahead? You got this! Head back to our blog for more simple plant care tips for your indoor greenery.

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INDOOR PLANTS, potted & DELIVERED

Premium plants paired with stylish ceramics, plus lifetime plant care support. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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The Pilea Peperomiodes, also known as the Chinese Money Plant, has a fascinating story of how it arrived to Europe from Asia in the hands of a curious missionary.

With Lunar New Year quickly approaching, we’re shining a light on some of the most popular houseplants that are native to Asia— not only do these plants add a touch of the exotic to your home, but many of them also have a rich history of being symbols of good luck and prosperity.

From the classic Silver Evergreen to the trendy Pilea Peperomioides, discover the origins of some of your favorite plants and considering bringing one home to ring in the Lunar New Year!

CAST IRON PLANT

A popular plant during Victorian times, the Cast Iron Plant or aspidistra is native to China and Japan and is one tough cookie: it can handle low light, high humidity and grow in a wide range of temperatures. It's perfect for the black thumb plant parent or for those who wants to bring a little bit of the jungle to their home office.

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Lady Palm

Native to southern China and Taiwan, this fan palm is the ultimate diva of the plant world. With its elegant, feathery fronds, it's sure to add a touch of Hollywood glamour to any room.

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Pilea Peperomioides

Also known as the Chinese Money Plant or The Friendship Plant, this little cutie is native to the Yunnan province in China (and has a delightful story behind the name “The Friendship Plant!”). With its round, coin-shaped leaves, it's easy to care for and it's sure to bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

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Braided Money Tree

A powerful symbol of good luck and prosperity according to the teachings of Feng Shui, the Braided Money Tree is a low touch plant that’s perfect for adding a touch of the exotic to your home. Available in many sizes, its braided trunk and lush leaves are sure to make a statement in any room.

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Silver Evergreen

Native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, the Silver Evergreen is a true survivor and is said to bring good luck and prosperity to those who care for it. With its striking variegated leaves, it can handle low light conditions and still look as lush as a jungle. Plus, it's a snap to care for, making it the perfect plant for the plant parent on the go.

Shop now →

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GROW YOUR OWN LUCK

Welcome the Year of the Rabbit with plants that bring good luck and fortune, according to the teachings of Feng Shui.

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Is watering your plants with rainwater a good idea?

When it comes to watering our houseplants, tap water is most people’s go-to. But did you know that using natural sources like rainwater can be beneficial for your plants? Here are three key reasons why catching those raindrops for your houseplants is worth the extra effort:

1. Rainwater is naturally soft, meaning it is free of many salts, minerals, and chemicals that can build up in soil, stems and leaves over time. Not only is it gentler on our plants, but it can also help flush out excess salts and chemicals in the soil, bringing your plant back to a healthier state.

2. Rainwater also has a slightly acidic pH, which is beneficial for most plants as it tends to be more in line with the pH levels they prefer, helping to balance out the soil's pH.

3. Rainwater contains nitrates, a form of nitrogen essential for plant growth and function, that can be easily absorbed by plants. All fertilizers contain varying levels of three macronutrients— potassium, phosphorous, and nitrogen—so see this as a way of naturally giving your plants a little vitamin boost!

Photo credit: @milivigerova

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PLANT ACCESSORIES AND POTTED PLANTS

Premium plants paired with stylish ceramics and luxurious plant care accessories. Order online at leonandgeorge.com

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Photo by @theweekendmixologist for Léon & George

Thinking of making 2023 a greener one? Popularity in houseplants has been on the rise for years, and it’s been a fun ride to watch your interest grow. We’re always keeping a close ear to the ground with what’s trending in the houseplant world, and we have a few predictions to make for the year ahead.

If you’re looking for inspiration, here’s where to start! Read up on three plant trends we can expect to see this year, and the years to come, because let’s be real: plants are timeless and never go out of style!

With climate change and water conservation on our minds, it's no surprise that drought tolerant plants are on the up-and-up, particularly for outdoor landscaping and front and backyards. These types of plants are able to thrive in dry conditions and require little to no watering, making them a sustainable and low-maintenance choice for your home or garden. Check out our full collection of drought-tolerant plants to find an easy-care beauty for 2023.

our favorite Drought-Resistant Plants

Snake Plant

Olive Bush

Zanzibar Gem

Cast Iron Plant

Move over, succulents. It looks like showers filled with lush, tropical plants are set to be the next big thing in 2023. Imagine stepping into a rainforest-like oasis every morning as you start your day— could there be anything better?

Some great plants to consider for your plant-filled shower include humidity-loving plants like the Bird’s Nest Fern or the Calathea Medallion. The Bird’s Nest Fern is a low-maintenance plant that thrives in high humidity and indirect light, making it a perfect fit for a shower setting. Hanging plants like the Cascading Pothos also make a great choice for the shower, known for their long, trailing vines and ability to purify the air. Read up on all the best bathroom plants to create your ideal bathroom oasis.

Top plants for the shower

Cascading Pothos

Calathea Medallion

Bird's Nest Fern

Monstera Deliciosa

Backyards are great, but we’ve seen a shift in focus towards the front of the home— think entryways, porches, and stoops. Creating symmetry around doorways with sets of plants like the Fiddle Bush Duo, or simply decorating porches with big, bright Bird’s of Paradise, is what’s on for 2023.

Depending where you live, you can have some plants outdoors year round! Other zones and climates may require you to move plants indoors for the winter. Either way, as spring approaches you may consider bringing bright greenery to spruce up the entrance to your home.

ENTRYWAY, PORCH & PATIO PLANTS

Fiddle Bush Duo

Bird of Paradise

Ponytail Palm

Sago Palm

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DESIGNED TO THRIVE

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Braided Money Tree

AKA pachira aquatica

A symbol of good luck and prosperity, the Braided Money Tree is a gorgeous indoor tree that can grow up to eight feet tall. Learn the basics of caring for this plant including light requirements, watering frequency, and how to troubleshoot common problems you may encounter along the way.

• Money Tree lighting

• How to water your Braided Money Tree

• Money Tree growth rate

• Common problems with Braided Money Trees

• Pruning, cleaning & repotting

• How to propagate the Braided Money Tree

• Shop Braided Money Trees

What kind of light does the Money Tree need?

This plant prefers bright indirect light, though they can adjust to medium levels of light. Keep them out of direct sunlight, as too much of it can scorch their leaves!

How to water your money tree

Let your plant dry out between waterings. Water thoroughly when topsoil is dry, usually once a week. Avoid overwatering, and note that your watering schedule may be less frequent during winter months.

Growth

In prime conditions, this plant is a fast grower and can reach up to eight feet tall indoors (and 60 feet tall in the wild!). Fertilize your Money Tree 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round.

Common problems with Braided Money Trees

How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Braided Money Tree

Take care of your Money Tree and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Money Tree over time.

Pruning Money Trees

Remove dry or dead leaves all year round, but save any major pruning for the spring and summer months. When pruning your plant, take a step back and look at the entire shape of the canopy, and determine which branches to remove to give it to restore an even, balanced shape. Use sharp, clean shears and cut any excessive growth at the base of the stem.

Cleaning Your Plant

The leaves of this plant are delicate. Mist regularly to keep dust off the plant, but if it gets to be extra dusty, carefully clean each leaf with a damp cloth.

How to Repot a money tree

Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every couple years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.

• When to repot - Braided Money Trees are resilient plants that don’t need a lot of upkeep. Repot once every two to three years to provide fresh nutrients.

• Pot sizing - if you want your plant to grow taller, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.

• Get your hands dirty - spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.

How to propagate a Braided Money Tree

There are many debates around how to successfully propagate a Money Tree. That said, it is a simple process if you take your cutting from the correct place. Follow these instructions to propagate your Money Tree:

• Select a stem to propagate - Using sharp, clean scissors or shears, cut a stem with at least two nodes. The node as a joint in the plant’s stem— this is where new growth typically stems off from.

• Place in potting soil - Place the cutting in fresh soil and water and drain thoroughly. Make sure the pot is an appropriate size — no more than six inches in diameter.

• Keep hydrated - Place the potted cutting in a bright area and, during the first few weeks or until your plant feels firmly rooted in its soil, regularly water and drain your new Money Tree. The soil should be just barely moist to the touch at all times.

Illustrations by our talented plant stylist, Kailie Barnes

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1 TO 1 VIDEO CALL WITH AN EXPERT

Yellow leaves? Worried about watering or struggling with incorrect lighting? Book a call and get truly personalized support for all your plant-related needs.

SCHEDULE HERE