Dive into the world of Snake Plants, perfect for any house plant lover. Elevate your space with these beauties in chic Mid-Century pots.

1. Sanseviera Laurentii

2. Sanseveria Trifasciata

3. Sanseveria Moonshine

4. Sanseveria Cylindrica

5. Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Hahnii'

6. Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Black Gold'

7. Sansevieria Masoniana 'Whale Fin'

8. Sansevieria Kirkii 'Silver Blue'

9. Sansevieria Bacularis

10. Sansevieria Francisii

11. Sansevieria Fernwood Mikado

12. Snake Plant Care Tips

The Snake Plant is also known as Mother-in-Law’s Tongue or Sansevieria. As avid indoor plant enthusiasts and horticulture lovers, we understand the allure of these popular houseplants, revered for their striking upright foliage, sword-like leaves, and air-purifying power. In this guide, we'll delve into the world of Sansevierias, sharing our favorite varieties and expert tips on how to grow and care for these resilient indoor plants. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a novice grower, join us as we explore the fascinating world of Snake Plant types, beloved for their tolerance to various conditions and their undeniable charm as foliage plants.

Sanseviera Laurentii

Apart from its vibrant lemon lime hues, the Sansevieria Laurentii stands out as one of the very best air-purifiers among all living houseplants, other Snake Plant varieties included. In a study performed by Nasa, this Snake Plant variety came out as not only one of the best air-purifying plants among Snake Plants in general, but among houseplants in general as well. The Sansevieria Launretii can tolerate low-light and is easy-to-grow and boasts green leaves with bright yellow edges, making this Snake Plant stand out from the rest.

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Hardy and perfect for beginners, the Snake Plant Laurentii requires little care to thrive.

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Sanseveria Trifasciata

Similar to the Laurentii but without the yellow leaves, the Sanseveria Trifasciata is another gorgeous, structural Snake Plant that can survive with little to no light, occasional neglect, and changes in humidity. While also variegated, its foliage is darker than the Laurentii with alternating deep green hues.

Moonshine Snake Plant

One of our favorite varieties of Snake Plants, the Moonshine Snake Plant boasts unique, glossy sage green leaves. Generally on the shorter side (2-3 feet tall), this plant can be a bit stouter and more easy-care than its cousins of similar shape and size.

Sanseviera Cylindrica

Like its name implies, the Sanseviera Cylindrica (sometimes also referred to as African Spear) grows tough cylindrical spears from its base. Sometimes braided, and sometimes in form of a star (Sanseviera Cylindrica Starfish), this variety of Snake Plant also requires very little maintenance to thrive. Though it can survive in low light conditions, bright light is best for this particular variety, which will grow its spears towards the light source if not adequately placed.

Sanseveria Laurentii

Sansevieria Trifasciata

Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Hahnii'

Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Hahnii' Often referred to as the Bird's Nest snake plant, 'Hahnii' features compact rosettes of short, wide leaves with a distinctive bird's nest-like shape. This variety is perfect for smaller spaces or as part of a succulent arrangement.

Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Black Gold'

Sansevieria Trifasciata 'Black Gold' 'Black Gold' boasts striking, dark green leaves with horizontal bands of golden-yellow variegation. The contrasting colors give it an elegant and sophisticated appearance, making it a stunning addition to any indoor setting.

Sansevieria Masoniana 'Whale Fin'

“Masoniana,' also known as the Whale Fin snake plant, features large, paddle-shaped leaves that resemble the fin of a whale. This striking variety commands attention and adds a bold statement to any space.

Sanseveria Moonshine

Sanseveria Cylindrica

Sansevieria Kirkii 'Silver Blue'

The 'Silver Blue' variety showcases beautiful blue-green leaves with silver mottling, giving it a captivating and ethereal appearance. Its unique coloration adds a touch of serenity to any room, making it a favorite among plant enthusiasts.

Sansevieria Bacularis

'Bacularis' is a charming snake plant variety with cylindrical leaves that grow in a distinctive star-like pattern. This variety is highly adaptable and grows well in various light conditions, making it a versatile choice for any indoor space.

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Hardy and one of the best plants for beginners, the Snake Plant Laurentii requires little care to thrive.

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Sansevieria Francisii

'Francisii' features compact clusters of short, wide leaves with intriguing patterns and unique textures. Its small size and intricate foliage make it an excellent choice for terrariums, shelves, or as a part of a succulent arrangement.

Sansevieria Fernwood Mikado

The 'Fernwood Mikado' variety is known for its narrow, cylindrical leaves with subtle light green striping. It has an elegant, architectural appearance that complements modern and minimalist aesthetics perfectly.

Found your favorite Snake Plant? Let’s take care of it!

As you embark on your Snake Plant gardening journey, here are some quick tips to ensure success with whichever type of Snake Plant you choose. When it comes to watering, remember that Snake Plants are drought-resistant, but it's essential to prevent them from drying out completely. Aim to water your plant sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to avoid root rot. During the growing season, fertilize your Snake Plant with a balanced fertilizer to promote healthy growth, but be cautious not to over-fertilize, as these plants have modest nutrient requirements. Keep an eye out for pests and insects, such as mealy bugs or spider mites which can occasionally plague Snake Plants. Maintaining high humidity levels can also help deter pests and ensure optimal growth. You can find more information about Snake Plant care in our article, The 10 Commandments Of Snake Plant Care! With these tips and a little green-thumb know-how, your Snake Plant will thrive in your indoor garden.

At Léon and George, we're on a mission to bring the beauty of nature indoors into your daily life. Our hand-selected, California-grown tropical plants such as the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree, Ficus Audrey, Dracaena, and Bird of Paradise are carefully chosen for their quality, health, and beauty. We believe in simplicity, fairness, and sustainability, sourcing our plants from trusted local growers who share our values. When you bring a Léon and George plant into your home, you're not just getting greenery – you're getting a piece of nature treated with our all-natural products and staged for optimal growth. We're here to make plant ownership accessible and enjoyable for everyone, fostering a connection between people and the natural world.

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1. Propagating with offsets

2. Propagating by division

Curious about how to propagate your plants?Plant propagation is incredibly simple with many indoor plants, and a fun way to create new accent plants for yourself or a friend. If you’ve never tried it before, read on to learn three simple ways to propagate your favorite plants, and join us for our Summer Solstice Cutting Swap with your newly learned skills!

How to propagate with Stem Cuttings

How to propagate a pothos in a few simple steps.

Propagating with stem cuttings is the most simple way to reproduce many common plants. Though you can place them directly in soil, many would argue that it’s easier to place them in water first (most likely because it’s impossible to forget to water them!). This method works well with plants like the Cascading Pothos, the Monstera Deliciosa, or prayer plants like the Magenta Triostar.

• Step one: Using a clean blade, cut off a stem just below a node (the area on the stem where a new leaf, aerial root, or branch might grow).

• Step two: Place the cutting in a small glass or jar with water. Make sure only the stem and node are submerged — do not submerge any leaves as they will rot (you may need to remove some leaves).

• Step three: Place in an area with bright, indirect light and wait. You may like to change the water every few days to keep it fresh. After a week or two, you should see roots begin to sprout.

• Step four: Once the roots have grown to about an inch long, carefully place them in a small pot with soil, gently pressing down on the soil once it’s potted. Keep the soil just moist to the touch for the first few weeks until the plant has taken root.

Tip: You may dip the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chances of rooting before placing in water, but this is not absolutely necessary.

How to propagate with offsets

How to propagate the Pilea or Chinese Money Plant using offsets.

Some plants grow offsets (sometimes known as “pups”) just below the mother plant. These offsets are small leafy shoots that are capable of forming their own roots. Once these offsets have grown one or two inches in height, it’s very easy to cut them off and create new plants. The best plants to propagate with this method are the Pilea and succulents.

• Step one: Using a clean blade, cut an offset at the base or closest to the soil as possible.

• Step two: Place the stem in a small glass or jar with water. Make sure only the stem or shoot is submerged — do not submerge any leaves as they will rot (you may need to remove some leaves).

• Step three: Place in an area with bright, indirect light and wait. You may like to change the water every few days to keep it fresh. After a week or two, you should see roots begin to sprout.

• Step four: Once the roots have grown to about an inch long, carefully place them in a small pot with fresh soil, gently pressing down on the soil once it’s potted. Keep the soil just moist to the touch for the first few weeks until the plant has taken root.

How to propagate by division

How to propagate a snake plant by division.

Many plants are easily propagated through division, which is simply dividing the roots, tubers, or rhizomes from the parent plant. In most cases, you can simply get your hands a little dirty by working out the roots and separating different pieces. This method of propagation works for plants like the Snake Plant, Zanzibar Gem, and Desert Cactus.

• Step one: Spread newspaper out on the floor (or go outside!) and remove the plant from its container. Gently begin untangling and splitting the roots — it’s okay if some break — and make sure each root structure has at least one piece of foliage on top.

• Step two: Once you’ve divided the roots (this could be in two pieces or several!), place the newly separated plants in fresh soil and gently pat down soil so it is tightly compressed.

• Step three: Place in an area with bright, indirect light and keep the soil just moist to the touch for the first few weeks, until the plant has taken root.

Tip: How do you know the plant has taken root? After a week or two, give the plant a gentle tug. It should feel anchored to its soil. If not, it has not yet taken root and is still slightly unstable.

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Plan on being away from your plants for more than a week? Try using a hydrospike to keep your plants healthy and hydrated while you’re gone.

Hydrospikes connect to a water-filled source like a plastic water bottle or wine bottle. As your plant dries, gravity pushes water slowly and evenly into the soil, keeping your plant's hydration in check over a longer period of time. 

Some also like to use this as a regular watering method if you don't mind the look of the water bottle sitting in or near your plant. Just remember to check them every now and then for algae!

There are a few different self-watering hydrospikes out there— ones that connect directly to a bottle and others that use a cable system. The latter is best for small plants as the spikes tend to be slightly smaller and fit more comfortably into the soil.

How to use hydrospikes with a bottle:

1. Soak it - Soak the hydrospike in water for at least 15 minutes.

2. Fill a wine bottle with water - One bottle should last anywhere from 1-3 weeks depending on the plant's size and environment.

3. Insert into soil - Place the wine bottle in the hydrospike and gently insert into the soil.

How to use hydrospikes with cables:

1. Soak it - Remove the cap and soak for 15 minutes in water.

2. Fill with water - Fill the hydrospike with water and replace the cap.

3. Insert into soil- Gently insert the hydrospike into the soil.

4. Place cable in water - Fill a bottle (or other recipient with a narrow opening) with water and push the cable inside.

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Bird of Paradise plants, with their stunning tropical foliage and vibrant blooms, add a touch of exotic beauty to any indoor or outdoor space. To ensure these majestic plants thrive and reach their full potential, providing them with the right nutrients is essential. Just like any other living organism, Bird of Paradise plants require nourishment to grow healthy leaves and (if you’re lucky!) produce those iconic, colorful flowers. In this article, we'll explore the best fertilizer for Bird of Paradise and guide you on how to fertilize these plants effectively.

Bird of Paradise plants, scientifically known as Strelitzia reginae, originate from South Africa and are accustomed to nutrient-rich soils. While it's challenging to recreate the exact conditions found in their natural habitat, we can still strive to provide them with optimal care. By choosing the right fertilizer, you can supply your Bird of Paradise with the essential nutrients it needs to flourish and achieve its full potential.

When To Fertilize Your Bird of Paradise

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When it comes to fertilizing Bird of Paradise plants, timing is crucial. The growing season for these plants typically occurs during spring and summer when they experience active growth. It's during this period that you should focus on providing them with adequate nutrients. To ensure your Bird of Paradise receives the nourishment it requires, incorporate a liquid fertilizer into your watering routine every other week. Liquid fertilizers are easy to use and generally safe for your plants. However, it's crucial to follow the instructions on the package carefully, diluting the fertilizer into water to avoid over-fertilization and potential fertilizer burn.

As fall approaches and your Bird of Paradise enters its dormant stage, it's important to adjust your fertilization routine accordingly. During this period, you should taper off fertilizing and reduce it to every three or four weeks. This adjustment allows the plant to prepare for its dormant phase in winter when growth slows down. If your plant is  no longer growing at all, you can completely stop fertilizing until the spring.

What NPK Ratio Does The Bird Of Paradise Need?

Transform your Bird of Paradise into a leafy paradise with healthy leaf growth!

Understanding fertilizer terminology can be daunting, particularly if you're new to plant care. Fertilizers are often labeled with an NPK ratio, representing the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) they contain. Each plant species has specific nutritional requirements, which is why it's recommended to choose fertilizers tailored to the plant you are nurturing. 

Bird of Paradise plants, similar to their foliage-loving counterparts, benefit from fertilizers with an NPK ratio of 3-1-2. This ratio signifies a higher nitrogen content, which is essential for promoting healthy leaf growth and overall plant vigor. Nitrogen supports the production of chlorophyll, which is responsible for the plant's lush green foliage. Our all-natural liquid plant food is gentle enough to use on your Bird of Paradise year round, and has an excellent NPK ratio not just for Birds of Paradise but for all indoor plants. 

What’s The Best Plant Food For A Bird Of Paradise?

Now that we've covered the basics of fertilizing Bird of Paradise plants, you may be wondering which specific fertilizer is best for your beloved plant. While there are several fertilizers available with an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 that can work effectively, Boost Vitaminé, an all-natural plant food with just four ingredients, will work wonders for your Bird of Paradise. This specialized fertilizer is formulated specifically for indoor plants and provides comprehensive instructions on the best care practices, ensuring optimal growth and blooming potential.

Will Fertilizing My Bird Of Paradise Help It Grow Flowers?

If you are caring for an outdoor Bird of Paradise, then yes! Fertilizing will absolutely promote your plant’s beautifully vibrant flowers. However, it is very rare for this plant to produce flowers when grown indoors.

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Plants have shown that they can remove toxins in the air. They do this through the pores in the epidermis of their leaves. Keeping their leaves clean and dust free will help them breathe better and smile brighter. Here are our favorite ways to keep our plant’s air-purifying powers up, and also to keep people asking "are those real?!":

• Damp Cloth - take two pieces of tissue, t-shirt scraps or microfiber cloths and wring it through water. Take one cloth in each hand, gently take each leaf between your hands and wipe down the surface. 

• Feather Duster - take a clean duster and gently wipe or shake it through the leaves. Swiffer dusters are pretty efficient and compact. 

• Shower - take your plants out of their decorative pot and wash them off in your sink or shower. Make sure the water drains all the way through the bottom and return after a few hours of drying. 

For tough stains like sap from other leaves or white crusty buildup from water, you can use a damp cloth mixed with soap and water, or better yet, our black olive soap formulated specifically for cleaning plants.

Looking for the best plants to remove toxins from your home or office? Shop our collection of fantastic air-purifiers and get one delivered directly to your door!

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THE NEW STANDARD FOR PLANTS

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Here's the truth - most houseplants die from being overwatered. Overwatering can also lead to yellow leaves, leaf drop, or root rot, among other symptoms. While finding the right light + water + temperature balance for each plant takes a bit of patience and trial and error, there are a few things you can do as precaution, and remember that an underwatered plant is much easier to fix than an overwatered one.

1. Check your plant’s soil has dried out

2. Use a moisture meter

3. Ensure there’s proper drainage

Check your plant’s soil has dried out

The best way to make sure you don’t overdo it on the watering is to let your plant's soil dry out between waterings. Before watering feel 2 inches deep into the soil with your fingers, or use a wooden bamboo stick to test moisture levels at the bottom of the pot (like when baking, the chopstick will come out completely dry if the plant is ready for more water!). With most plants, if you feel or notice moisture, hold off on watering.

Use a moisture meter

If you want a more accurate idea of the moisture levels in your plant’s soil, try using a moisture meter. This a simple gadget that can provide the most accurate readings of whether or not it's time to water your plant. Read our full guide on how to use your moisture meter for best results.

Ensure there’s proper drainage

Make sure that your plant’s nursery pot or decorative container has a drainage hole. This will protect the roots from sitting in stagnant water. Balance style & function by elevating your plants with 1" of Styrofoam within their decorative pot, this will absorb any excess water that drips from their nursery container.

Have any doubts about your watering schedule? Email us a photo at plantdoctor@leonandgeorge.com and we can help you find the right balance. 

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Mold is a type of fungus that can grow on just about any surface that is moist and has organic matter. It is a common problem in households, especially in areas where there is high humidity and poor air circulation. Mold is also a concern for houseplants, as it can affect their health and growth.

However, not all mold is bad, and if you see it on the surface of your plant’s soil—relax! It’s totally harmless. A white powdery film on the soil's surface is actually a sign of life, and many organic gardeners believe it supports growth.

Is mold beneficial for houseplants?

There are some instances where mold can be beneficial for houseplants. One such example is when the mold is growing on the surface of the potting soil. This type of mold is typically harmless and can even help break down organic matter in the soil, making nutrients more available to the plant.

Another example of beneficial mold is mycorrhizal fungi, which are a type of fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots. These fungi help the plant absorb nutrients, such as phosphorus and nitrogen, from the soil. In turn, the plant provides the fungi with sugars produced during photosynthesis.

How can mold be bad for houseplants?

While there are some instances where mold can be beneficial for houseplants, there are also many cases where it can be harmful. One such example is when the mold is growing on the leaves of the plant. This type of mold can inhibit photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants produce their food. If the mold growth is severe, it can lead to leaf drop and even death of the plant.

Mold can also be a sign of overwatering. When soil is constantly moist, it provides the perfect environment for mold to grow. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is a condition where the plant's roots become saturated with water and begin to decay. This can cause the plant to wilt, lose leaves, and ultimately die.

In addition to harming the plant, mold can also be a health hazard for humans and pets. Certain types of mold, such as black mold, can produce toxins that can cause respiratory problems and other health issues.

How to prevent mold from growing on houseplants

The best way to prevent mold from growing on houseplants is to provide them with the proper growing conditions. This includes making sure that they are planted in well-draining soil and that they are not overwatered. Good air circulation is also important, so avoid placing plants in areas with poor ventilation and consider regularly aerating your plant’s soil.

How to address mold on houseplants

• Remove - scrape off the top layer of soil, being careful not to get too close and breathe in any of the fungal spores

• Reduce humidity - move your plant to a sunnier spot, or somewhere with more air ventilation to help the soil dry out

• Keep your plant clean - clean your plants leaves and stems regularly with a mild soap like L’Original, which also functions as a natural fungicide

• Fluff the moss - Léon & George plants are topped with a decorative moss, fluff up the moss to create more room for air circulation

• Wait to water - don't water again until the soil has completely dried out

• Spice - if the mold is recurring and the actions above aren't working, sprinkle a light and even layer of cinnamon onto the soil 

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At Léon & George we don’t believe in the concept of the “brown thumb”— anyone and everyone can enjoy the benefits of owning indoor plants! But let’s be real: there’s no denying that we all have a friend who, despite their best intentions, struggles to keep their plants alive. Read on to find gift inspiration for that person in your life who aspires to be a better plant parent.

Preventative Plant Care Essentials Kit

A luxurious houseplant starter kit to keep plants glowing, growing and green as can be. Kit includes all natural plant food, foliar feed and black olive soap specifically formulated to keep plants clean and pest-free.

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Foolproof Moisture meters

May they never overwater (or underwater) again! These beautifully sleek moisture meters are incredibly easy to use and simply change colors when it’s time to water.

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An indestructible plant

Give them a plant they can’t kill, like the Philodendron Brasil. Philodendrons are incredibly hardy plants that grow in almost any conditions and are very forgiving when it comes to neglect. Plus, this plant comes with foolproof care instructions as well as lifetime access to the Léon & George Plant Doctor service.

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A Stylish Watering Can

Could watering be easier with a more stylish watering can? Though it may still be up for debate, one thing is certain: if it lives in your living room (and in your line of sight), there are higher chances of actually using it. We love this simple and functional water can which includes a built in mister!

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A foolproof houseplant care book

There are plenty of fantastic plant care books out there, but why not give a gift with a little edge? How Not To Kill Your Plants is not only an attractive book for the coffee table, but also a practical guide to caring for houseplants (plus, the name says it all!).

Self-watering spikes

You don’t need to go on vacation to merit using a self-watering system. For those who are inconsistent or forgetful in their watering habits, these Punchau terracotta plant waterers could be the perfect solution, and could lead to potentially never having to water again.

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The Perfect Gift, Every Time

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• How does sending a plant gift work?

  Join hundreds of customers in choosing Léon & George for all their gifting needs. We make it effortless to send an impressive and upscale gift to all the important people in your life, near and far. Enjoy some of the perks of shopping for gifts with Léon & George:

  • Fast, nationwide shipping with express and overnight options

  • Innovative, custom packaging that ensures your gift arrives in pristine condition

  • Personalized gift message options

  • Select your preferred ship date, if desired

• What are the best easy care plants to send as gifts?

  There are so many beginner-level plants that make great gifts. Shop our full collection of low maintenance, easy care plants to find the perfect plant for your recipient.

• What's included with each gift?

  Every plant gift includes simple care instructions to keep the plant happy and healthy over time. You may also select to include a custom gift message. All gift orders are covered under our 45 Day Guarantee and our Plant Doctor program, which means the recipient can message us anytime for plant care support. Their gift will include a QR code to quickly set up their guarantee and access the Plant Doctors.

It's no surprise that the the Fiddle Leaf Fig has risen to the top of the most wanted indoor plant list, with its structural leaves and ability to transform almost any space into the likes of a magazine shoot. These big bold beauties can be picky though, and most owners experience brown spots despite perfect maintenance routines and all the sweet talking they can muster. Read on for the three most common causes.

• Overwatering - Darker brown spots around leaf edges and centers will form from getting too much water. Overwatering and keeping the soil moist will cause the roots to rot and can lead to fungal infections. Check under your plant for drainage and standing water ASAP. Allow soil to dry completely through between waterings. In extreme cases, change out the soil. Read our full article on this topic if you are not sure if you’ve overwatered or underwatered your Fiddle.

• Dryness - Light brown spots (as pictured) will form around the edges of leaves from a lack of water, or too much direct light. A bright spot next to the window, but not in the path of harsh direct sunlight or any heat source is best. Refresh your tree by giving it a thorough shower, letting the water run through the drainage holes. When time to water again, add 1/2 cup to your typical amount and check every 5-7 days to see how fast your plant is drinking and drying.

• Insect Damage - small dark spots that eventually turn into holes, this type of browning can often be found on new growth. Luckily, this isn't very common and is easy to treat. Look out for insects or webs on the undersides of the leaves. Spray both sides of the leaves and along the stem with Neem Oil, a natural fungicide that kills bugs, larvae, and eggs. Wait two weeks, inspect for further evidence of insects, and repeat if necessary.

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The Pilea is an adorably trendy cat-safe plant. Photo by @crancourt96

Any cat parent knows: keeping our feline friends out of off-limits areas is an uphill battle. And while they say curiosity killed the cat, this danger does not need to exist with your good-intentioned houseplants! Living greenery adds so much to a space, and just because you have a curious cat at home that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy all the wonderful benefits houseplants have to offer. 

Our company was named after a cat (Léon of Léon & George is a female tabby cat who lives in Paris!), so we know a thing or two about peacefully coexisting with flora and fauna (by the way, read up on tips for keeping cats off plants!). Check out the most beautiful plants that a feline fan can own, all 100% non-toxic and safe for cats! 

Kentia Palm

First on our list is the Kentia Palm, a majestic statement plant made to bring your indoor jungle to life. These palms are not only safe for cats, but they’re also easy to care for and can grow up to 10 feet tall. With their long, slender leaves and airy appearance, they’re sure to add a tropical touch that your cat will love.

Cast Iron Plant

The Cast Iron Plant is aptly named for its tough, hardy leaves that can withstand neglect and low light. Possibly the easiest cat-safe houseplant, this plant is a great choice for those who are new to indoor gardening or who have a busy schedule as it requires very little upkeep over time. 

Kentia Palm

Cast Iron Plant

Parlor Palm

Next up is the Parlor Palm, a classic indoor plant that has been a popular choice since the Victorian times! A petite little palm that is adaptable to low light, this plant is a great choice for smaller and/or lower light homes with cats.

Braided Money Tree

Who doesn’t love a little bit of good luck? The Braided Money Tree is not only believed to bring good fortune and wealth, but it’s also a safe choice for cat owners. With its braided trunk and glossy green leaves, this plant adds a touch of elegance to any space.

Parlor Palm

Braided Money Tree

Bird’s Nest Fern

If you’re looking for a low-maintenance plant that’s also safe for your cat, the Bird’s Nest Fern is a great option. This plant is native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia and features wavy, crinkled leaves that resemble a bird’s nest.

Pilea Peperomiodes

Quirky and fun, the Pilea Peperomiodes is an excellent choice for cat owners looking for a stylish accent. This plant is often referred to as the “Chinese Money Plant” and is known for its round, coin-shaped leaves. Easy to propagate, this adorable pet-safe plant is great for side tables, countertops, shelves or a workspace.

Lady Palm

The Lady Palm is a graceful plant with delicate, fan-shaped leaves that grow in a circular pattern. They’re easy to care for and can grow up to 6 feet tall, making them perfect for larger spaces. Plus, they’re non-toxic to cats, so you don’t have to worry about any curious nibbles.

Calathea Rattlesnake

Another member of the Calathea family, the Calathea Rattlesnake features long, slender leaves with a striking pattern that resembles the scales of a rattlesnake. These plants prefer bright, indirect light and consistent humidity. 

Lady Palm

Calathea Rattlesnake

Calathea Medallion

The Calathea Medallion is a stunning prayer plant with oval-shaped leaves that feature intricate patterns of green, cream, and pink. These plants are a bit more high maintenance than some of the others on this list, but the effort is worth it for their striking beauty. They’re also safe for cats, so you can enjoy their unique look without any worries.

Magenta Triostar

Last but not least, we have the Magenta Triostar, a plant that’s sure to add a pop of color to any room in your home. With its vibrant green, pink, and cream-colored leaves, it’s truly a sight to behold, and your cat will look dazzling lounging beside it!

Calathea Medallion

Magenta Triostar

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Ah, the delicious Monstera Deliciosa. So pretty, so low-maintenance, and such a bountiful grower! It’s not uncommon for Monsteras to grow quickly when they’re well cared for, and this can mean aerial roots a-go-go and ever-expanding foliage. If your Monstera is rapidly entering Wild Thing territory, don’t fret-- you can simply stake it! 

The Benefits Of Staking Your Monstera

Supporting your Monstera’s posture with a stake or moss poll has a number of benefits. In their native environments, Monsteras are epiphytes, which means that they’re plants that grow vertically in nature by climbing on the other plants around them. That’s right, they get by with a little help from their friends! 

This epiphytic behavior can be tougher to accommodate when your Monstera is potted at home, but stakes make the perfect “dupe” for other greenery. Your Monstera will cling to its stake, reach upward, and hold its heaviest stems straight, which gives it the pleasing posture that keeps them looking their best. Monsteras also grow aerial roots— love them, don’t cut them! They are there to support your plant’s heavy base, but staking the plant helps take some of the load off of those roots, enabling you to tuck them under your Monstera’s soil and let them rest unseen. 

Now stake away— your Monstera will love you for it! 

Read our full guide on caring for the beautiful Monstera Deliciosa.

How to stake a Monstera

1. Find The Perfect Stake, Moss Poll, Or Coir Pole

The two main varieties of garden stakes for houseplants are bamboo stakes and coir or moss poles. Bamboo stakes are affordable, attractive and easy to work with. They have thin diameters and endless versatility. Coir (coconut fiber) poles are significantly thicker and comprised of wooden bases wrapped in coconut husk. The coconut husk is super-absorbent, so you can water directly onto the pole, and it will create humidity for your plant. Moss poles are also popular options and are similar to coir poles, except often covered with sphagnum moss instead.

2. Insert The Stake Into The Soil

Find the areas at the base (bottom) of your Monstera that contain the thickest, heaviest stems and need the most support. Once you’ve identified these areas, use a trowel to dig small holes into which you’ll stick the stakes. Make sure that the stake is firmly situated in the soil, far enough down that it does not wiggle or sag. You can stick the stake all the way down to the bottom of your Monstera’s pot for added support. 

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3. Utilize Support Ties

You don’t need special support ties when staking plants. You can use plant tie tape, twine, or strips of fabric. Just be sure that when you tie the stems of your Monstera to the stakes, you do not tie them tightly enough to damage them. They should be securely anchored, but not strangled. 

Begin adding your support ties about 1-2 inches up from the point where your plant’s base meets the soil. The more support your plant has at its bottom, the easier it will be for it to stretch upward as it grows. Repeat the ties at intervals of several inches (about every three to eight inches, depending on the size of your Monstera).

And That’s That! 

Now that your Monstera has been staked, you’ll notice an improvement in its overall form and health, and its epiphytic nature will have room to thrive. Check out our complete care guide to keep your plant glowing over time, add additional support ties or stakes when necessary, and the future will be bright for you and your Monstera!

Photo by @anniespratt

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Propagation with cuttings is a simple way to multiply your plant, and the Pilea, also known as the Chinese Money Plant or the Friendship Plant, is the perfect candidate! In fact, it gets the nickname “Friendship Plant” because it was traditionally passed on from one friend to another via cuttings. As such, for a long time, it was a hard plant to find on the shelves of local plant shops and nurseries. Luckily, that’s no longer the case, which makes it the perfect gift to send to a friend (even the New York Times agrees it’s the perfect gift!), or get for yourself and pass along cuttings!

If you’re wondering how to care for your Pilea, check out our complete care guide including light recommendations, watering tips and troubleshooting when things go awry.

How to propagate the Pilea

Propagating the Pilea Peperomiodes is incredibly simple:

The “mother plant” is the central stalk of your plant, while the “pups” are smaller offshoots growing in the surrounding soil.

Cut at the base of a pup, and place in water while it roots.

1. Locate small offsets, or baby Pileas (AKA “pups”), at the base of the plant. You will find these below the main stalk— if your plant doesn’t have any, hold off! They will sprout up soon.

2. Using a clean blade, cut an offset at the base or closest to the soil as possible.

3. Place the stem of the offset in a small glass or jar with water. Make sure only the stem or shoot is submerged — do not submerge any leaves, as they will rot (you may need to remove some leaves).

4. Place in an area with bright, indirect light and wait. You may like to change the water every few days to keep it fresh. After a week or two, you should see roots begin to sprout.

5. Once the roots have grown to about an inch long, carefully place them in a small pot with fresh soil, gently pressing down on the soil once it’s potted. Keep the soil just moist to the touch for the first few weeks until the plant has taken root.

Good luck and happy propagating! Don’t forget to fertilize your plant once it’s taken root— a gentle fertilizer like Boost Vitaminé natural plant food will help it grow into a healthier and stronger mature plant!

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1 TO 1 VIDEO CALL WITH AN EXPERT

Yellow leaves? Worried about watering or struggling with incorrect lighting? Book a call and get truly personalized support for all your plant-related needs.

SCHEDULE HERE